Reviewer's Summer School Dept: Artic Wolf

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Capn Jimbo
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Reviewer's Summer School Dept: Artic Wolf

Post by Capn Jimbo »

Reviewer's Summer School Dept: Artic Wolf


It was not so long ago that Mr. Wolf was invited to visit Guyana for the ostensible purpose of "...building our knowledge with respect to both Demerara Distillers and the Country of Guyana". He took the trip (who wouldn't) but we never learned much about the "Country of Guyana", and I could never find the article he claimed he'd post. What we did get was a few tourist type snapshots "...here's me standing by the falls... standing on top of a still... looking into a fermentation tank", et al.

Very educational. We did learn that several members of the entourage were annointed "Connoiseurs of Rum" by DDL. A real honor, I'm sure.


So how is this relevent now?

It's relevent because Mr. Wolf just posted a review for El Dorado 25, which - of course - got a top score, ending with the Wolfboy positing: "...I'm reminded of another great.. the El Dorado 15... It seems to me that these two rums must share a similar heritage." That's what most everybody assumes. All the El Dorado's must surely share the same heritage, with the primary difference being one of aging or perhaps blending, right? Sorry pal, but you're gonna have to go to Capn Jimbo's Remedial Summer School for Quasimodo Reviewers...


CJ's Summer School for "Special" Reviewers

Here's the deal. Unlike say Flor de Cana, Barbancourt, Ron Viejo de Caldas and many more too numerous to mention, the El Dorados are very, very different from one another. You'd think a guy who actually visited the distiller - even on a paid-for, stroke trip - would have noticed or learned that. You see, El Dorado is really a conglomeration of multiple stills brought together from what was once a goodly number of different distilleries (think 200 to 380), but which went out of business, or were otherwise absorbed by the DDL (Demeraran Distillers, Ltd).

Sum total the DDL (El Dorado) has a multiplicity of stills. Wooden, metal, single column, double column, five column, low capacity, high capacity, and pot stills. Many of these are leaking and not very impressive (compare to the spotless still houses of Scotland). Here's the actual list of current stills in use:
# 1x Wooden Coffey Still by Enmore Sugar Estate
# 1x Single Wooden Pot Still von Versailles Sugar Estate
# 1x Double Wooden Pot Still von Port Mourant Sugar Estate
# 2x French Savalle Four-Columns Still von Uitvlugt Sugar Estate
# 3x Two-Columns Metal Coffey Stills
# 1x Two-Columns Metal Coffey-like Still
# 1x Five-Columns Metal Continuous Still
# 1x Re-Rectification Still
# 2x Metal Pot Stills
(Credit to Cocktails Old Fashioned)

Twelve stills in all, all naturally producing very different product. The idea that the 25 year old has the same heritage as the 15, or any other El Dorado is, well, what gets you into summer school. At least they're both rum, lol. Let's be specific.

The 25 year old is predominantly made from two rums: first from a two-column Guyanan wooden Coffey still (Enmore) and second, from a four column metal French Savalle still. On the other hand the 15 is predominatly from a double wooden pot still(s) and from a two column metal Coffey still. Of course the difference is substantial, as the pot still batch production of the 15 tends to be more flavorful, while the two and four column stills of the 25yo was designed to pump out high production but much thinner, less flavorful (higher alcohol) product.

Both products are blended with lesser amounts of other column and pot stills, but it is fair to say the 25 is predominantly a column stilled product, while the 15 is predomantly pot stilled. I won't bore you with the other ED's but suffice it to say they too differ, and more significantly. As a result it is impossible to do comparative vertical tastings with ED's to examine the effects of aging (as you can with many other rums).

Honestly, you'd think a guy who stood damn still on the damn still for a picture, and had the chance to ask some real questions of his hosts, might just know that. Does he?

You decide.
Last edited by Capn Jimbo on Wed Sep 26, 2012 10:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Capn Jimbo
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The Wolf doubles down...

Post by Capn Jimbo »

The Wolf doubles down...


In a comment on his "review", the Wolf added:
Wolf: "I find the 12 is similar to the 21 and the 15 is similar to the 25... In each case the older version seems to be a refined version of the younger..."
It seems that Mr. Wolf's position is that what amounts to a common base simply becomes more refined with age. Most of the reviewers I hold competent would heartily disagree, and find these rums quite different. And again, here's why:

The 12: Predominantly two column, metal Coffey still. Secondarily wooden (2 col) Coffey still rum. Essentially a 2 column Coffey stilled rum.

The 15: Predominantly double wooden pot still blended with the two column metal Coffey still rum. Secondarily a blend ofl single wooden pot still, with the wooden (2 col) Coffey still rum. A strong pot still influence.

The 21: Predominantly 4 column French Savalle rum. Secondarily a blend of single wooden pot still, with wooden (2 col) Coffey still rum. A thin column stilled rum, with a touch of pot stilled product.

The 25: Almost completely a column-stilled product from a metal, four column French Savalle, and the two column wooden Coffey, but with just a bit of double wooden pot sill product tossed in. Similar to the 21 in makeup.

It should be clear that each of these products is based on a blend different from all the others. For the Wolf to compare the 12 to the 21, and especially the 15 to the 25 is pure imagination on his part. Yes, they are all rum, but no - they do not share a "common heritage". Of all the well known distillers, El Dorado stands alone in the variation of their products made from very different blends of very different stills of very different construction.


Bottom Line

1. It is a given that different stills produce notably different rums. This is so critical that when the great Scottish single malts have to repair a still, the craftsman are careful to even reproduce the original piece exactly, including not only material specifications and contruction, but even reproducing the dents of the original.

2. These three rums are composed of very different products in very differnet blends from very different stills of very different materials and using very different processes. Keep in mind that these stills came from different distilleries. Although their historical value is considerable, so too are preserved their differences.

To hold that these three rums are simply age-refined variations lies well south of convincing.
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