Cruzan: the real truth...

This is the main discussion section. Grab yer cups! All hands on deck!
Post Reply
User avatar
Capn Jimbo
Rum Evangelisti and Compleat Idiot
Posts: 3550
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 3:53 pm
Location: Paradise: Fort Lauderdale of course...
Contact:

Cruzan: the real truth...

Post by Capn Jimbo »

The perils of conglomerization...


In the "old days", which today means five or ten years ago, Cruzan was really a very good rum. Even their entry level rums were labeled two years of age, the Estate Diamond (five years) was considered brilliant by broad consensus and the "Single Barrel" (more about this one later) made top ratings at one time.

Boy, has that changed.

The "two years" became "aged", the Diamond Estate was discontinued, and the Single Barrel of old is not the same rum it once was. I found this revealing post by guy who really seems to know...


StriperGuy: (April, 2010) "By way of background I have been going to St. Croix (home of Cruzan rum for quite a while.)

And I just did some research that explains a lot. In August of 2008 Cruzan was acquired by Beam Brands for $100M:

http://www.chadbourne.com/newsevents/...

In all fairness I actually think the single barrel product is decent, I guess I am just sad that they phased out the 5 Year aged Diamond Estate, which I liked MUCH better; It was subtler, more complex, just plain better, didn't hit you over the head, and when you finished one, you wanted another. The single barrel to my palate is just a Barrilito 3 Star wanna be, and is oaked nearly to death. Try drinking two on the rocks back to back, I can't, it's just too much; by the time I'm done with one my reaction is whew, I need a glass of water.

They no longer make the 2 year white or amber which were nice, delicately aged products that could be quaffed on the rocks, and stood up nicely to mixing.

My feeling is that Cruzan's recent product moves, indicate they have completely given up nearly 250 years of family tradition. I actually wrote Gary Nelthropp, the President, and member of the family that until recently owned, and still runs the distillery, a letter today telling him how disappointed I am.

They stopped making all of their rum out of local cane a few years back, now they ship in molasses from S. America. I can forgive them that, sort of, as growing cane on the scale they need it, is getting prohibitive on St. Croix.

More recently it's not even bottled in St. Croix, they ship rum to Florida for bottling, I'm sure at some enormous Beam owned plant (and I might guess flavoring too).

The blackstrap product I think is one of the clunkiest dark rums I've ever tasted. Tastes like they just poured blackstrap molasses into cheap industrial rum, which is, in fact, what I think they did. I really think that product is pretty crappy. Some marketing guy woke up and said: "we need a product that competes with Gosling's, three guys in a lab figured out how to do it as cheap as possible, and that's what we got.

I would WAY prefer to drink Coruba, Meyers, Goslings, Lemon Hart, or one of the other countless dark rums that has some genuine, un-manufactured flavor.

So basically over a course of about 2 years they abandoned all of their old family proven recipes and came out with new "marketing-driven" product.

When it comes to rum in general, Cruzan across the board is basically at the bottom of my list going forward, except when I want a handle (1.75l) for small money to make a big bowl of punch on a hot summer day."
(emphasis added)

Yes indeed, the marketing department dumbed down what was once a premier portfolio and lost their reputation to boot. These once fine rums have been replaced with a list of thin, artificially flavored rums designed to compete with Bacardi. To hell with the sippers.

StriperGuy (at Chowhound) continues...


StriperGuy: Uhhhhh I've been going to St. Croix and drinking Cruzan for a long time...

They are now owned by Fortune Brands (think Jim Beam and ownership back to Warren Buffett's Berskshire Hathaway.)

As I state above, the single barrel product is pretty good. Try Barrilito 3 Star from Puerto Rico for something much better.

That said, over the past 10 years they have extensively CUT Corners with their basic products. Though obviously you did not READ my post above:

- The white and amber used to both be aged 2 years, no longer, now the bottle just says "aged," and by the taste, I'd say they spend about 10 minutes on oak. These rums used to have real character, but no longer.

At the distillery they make a real show of pressing sugar cane, but that is just Disneyfied nonsense for the tourist. NONE of the rum is from local cane. They merely import molasses from elsewhere, distill it in St. Croix, and then ship it elsewhere (FL and KY) for bottling:

http://stcroixlibationsociety.com/revie ... istillery/

The only reason they even bother to distill on St. Croix at all any more is that there are specific longstanding tax advantages to producing rum in the US Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico.

See here for some recent discussion:

http://www.caribbeanbusinesspr.com/news ... 71&ct_id=1
(emphasis added)


Bottom Line:

Cruzan was one of the first rums to submit completely to their new owners' marketing department, with quality sacrificed to new cheesier, market-driven crapola. Cruzan's old Blackstrap, Estate Diamond and Single Barrel were among the first rums we tasted - and loved - over four years ago, before their corporate owners recreated everything.

Please see the reviews. I later found about five bottles of the Estate Diamond, which are touched only rarely and will be removed only on special occasions.

Next: R&D's take...
Last edited by Capn Jimbo on Fri Mar 02, 2012 8:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
Capn Jimbo
Rum Evangelisti and Compleat Idiot
Posts: 3550
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 3:53 pm
Location: Paradise: Fort Lauderdale of course...
Contact:

RnD chimes in...

Post by Capn Jimbo »

RnD chimes in...


Roger and Dave recently posted a review on the Single Barrel (which I highly recommend), a deserved free plug. In it they stated:
RnD: "Cruzan rum is distilled from a molasses wash (“beer”) in a massive five column still, and aged in used oak Kentucky bourbon barrels (reportedly with extra oak chips inside) for up to 12 years, then blended and allowed to rest in oak for up to one more year to marry the blended rums before bottling. I’ve been told by knowledgeable sources at another distillery that Cruzan has a competitive price advantage because their molasses is subsidized by the US Federal Government. Cruzan supposedly pays less than 10% of the price that its competitors pay for premium grade, high-sugar-content (55% sugar and higher) molasses.


And about Cruzan’s “Single Barrel” moniker: it’s okay in the world of rum, but it puts stretch marks on the definition used for Scotch whisky. So what, we’re all about rum here, ya know, it’s the fun booze, the rule breaker, the spirit of Pirates and Brigands. Those who want a highly individualized rum that is aged and bottled from one single 55 gallon oak barrel, look to St. Nicholas Abbey or Callwood’s Arundel rum. In the context of Premium Aged Rum, Cruzan Single Barrel is darn good stuff for sipping or mixing. "
Thank you, Roger and Dave. The jury is now in and the verdict has been confirmed. Please especially note Cruzan's misuse of the term "Single Barrel". Let's face it: we all know EXACTLY what the term "single barrel" states or implies... aged in, and bottled from a - single - barrel.

Uno.

From the still into, yes, a single barrel for the rest of its aging. One barrel, period and then bottled from that barrel. Period. Cruzan's Single Barrel is just a plain misstatement - or what some might call a stinking lie. You decide. The rum that is to become "Single Barrel" is no different than any other blended spirit that has been aged in many barrels, which are finally mixed and blended and left to marry for a short time.

It's a blended rum, no more or no less. Friends and idiots, this is exactly, precisely why rum, unlike single malt whisky or bourbon, remains rogue. And apparently werumdrinkers can't seem to accept this.

Now you may have also noted in this and the earlier post, that Cruzan may be bringing back the Estate Diamond, an intriguing tease that has been leaked for some years now.

I'll believe it when I pour it and taste it. Coming soon - The Rum Project compares the new and old "Multiple Barrel"...


*******
Capn's Log: I rarely link the commercial MOR, but RnD did, and for good reason. Unlike most of the MOR commercial capsules, this one actually gives an excellent overview of how Cruzan operated in the old days...

http://www.ministryofrum.com/producerdetails.php?t=145


Also be SURE to listen to Hamilton's fawning interview with the CEO of Cruzan (last sound link at bottom of page), who covers the entire line and methods, at least as of 2009. Really quite interesting.
Last edited by Capn Jimbo on Fri Mar 02, 2012 8:03 pm, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
Capn Jimbo
Rum Evangelisti and Compleat Idiot
Posts: 3550
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 3:53 pm
Location: Paradise: Fort Lauderdale of course...
Contact:

A final summary...

Post by Capn Jimbo »

A final summary...


1. Cruzan now operates as a huge industrial producer of the lowest common denominator, huge and decentralized product, multiply-distilled (five column industrial) product (distilled to a near vodka thin 94.5%)! This near vodka-like product is then modified.

Every single, profitable drop of alcohol is extracted at the cost of eliminating almost all of rum's real component flavors, esters and aldehydes. Go another percent or two and you have vodka.

I'm serious.

2. These few remaining thin flavors are then made rum-like via the addition of truckloads of artificial flavors for their huge flavored line, molasses for their "dark" rum, and by picking up what are primarily wood influence by storage in worn-out bourbon barrel (to which new oak chips have been added).

Talk about industrial production!

3. Cruzan not only produces about 500,000 cases of rum-like products, but is also one of the largest (if not the largest) wholesaler (millions of gallons) of unaged 50% product to other for bottling under a myriad of private labels.

This is as far as you can possibly get from actual rich and tasty, artisan rums made with pot stills. The only rums that compare are made by Bacardi or the huge alcohol/sugar/flavoring conglomerate, Tanduay (who actually imports freighter tankers full of alcohol, which they then mix with imported sugars, and mass quantities of altificial flavoring - all industrial - as they actually "assemble" their "rum".

Gag me, quick...


*******
Some additional factoids, per the CEO of Cruzan...

1. The 5-column distillation (obviously) focuses on the ethyl alcohols with just a touch of fusels.

2. He claims typical Angel's loss of at least 6% per year, 15-16% in two years, 90% in 12 years.

3. Their "one year" product is blend, includes rums from 14 months to 2 years.

4. The "Single Barrel" product is, yup, a blend of 5 to 12 years. He claims the former Estate Diamond was discontinued so as (it is assumed) to provide a base for the it. The rums for SB are indeed from multiple, old bourbon barrels, then blended and "finished" in brand new, charred oak (plus new oak chips!) for a very short 6 to 9 months, and then to stainless steel tanks for shipment to bottling in the US.

To me this is a very forced process designed to preserve product (reduced Angel's share). Unfortunately true aging takes lots of time. Forced aging with new oak (and especially oak chips) cannot compare to real aging in good used oak. Such quick aging results in tons of tannins and some of the negative aspects of new wood.

3. He seems to admit that the Blackstrap product depends on something he refers to as "molasses-based flavoring". I'd have to doubt this is food grade molasses, and the added word "flavoring" raises my neck hairs. He could have said "added fine molasses", but didn't.

You decide.
NCyankee
Admiral
Posts: 232
Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2010 1:52 am

Post by NCyankee »

I have a bottle of the Blackstrap - I agree it is nowhere near as good as it was a few years ago when I actually used to enjoy sipping it (and that was before I got into drinking all manner of spirits neat). It still makes a great mixer when you are in the mood for a lot of molasses flavor. I tried it with Coke recently (I rarely use coke for anything) and it worked very well, and I have used it in a variation of banana daiquiri which turned out excellent. But I find it very difficult to drink straight these days.

I also have a bottle of the Single barrel, which I do like though it is not anywhere near my top 5. I got it for a great price ($19 on closeout), if I had paid the usual retail of ~$30 I would be disappointed. I never had it before they changed to the current bottling, so have no frame of reference, but it reminds me very much of bacardi 8 yr old - which makes sense being a Cuban style rum like the Barrilito 3 star (which I also have yet to try.)
Mike.357
Cabin Boy
Posts: 23
Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2012 4:14 pm
Location: Knoxville Tennessee

Post by Mike.357 »

I am so glad I saw this topic.

The Cruzan 2 year old was my go to rum. My bar was never without a bottle of it. It was dark in color, had rich flavor and just plain old tasted good. Then one day while restocking the shelf in the liquor store I immediately noticed the washed out color and of course instantly looking at the label saw the words Aged Rum. I said to myself whisky tango foxtrot.

I knew something had changed. And it did not change for the better.

I bought a bottle and after tasting it decided it would be the last bottle of Cruzan I would ever pay for. The stuff is terrible, well it might taste good compared to Castillo Gold but I am not paying for that either. Cruzan Aged Rum was my "go to" recommendation when advising a budget conscience rum buying customer. I just cannot tell someone it is good and they ought to buy it. I can't do it any more.

I did some research and saw where it had been bought out by Beam. I have tried to contact Beam and have never received a response. You mention it spends some time in a barrel, I am not so sure it is not caramel coloring giving it the washed out gold hue. The spirit is vile and despicable now. I doubt my meager influence will make any difference but I absolutely tell customers seeking advice to avoid it. I now point first to Appleton Special and if they frown at that I just move them on to Bacardi.

What has the world come to?


*******
Capn's Log: Mike, you are not alone. This has happened with rum after rum as the Diageo's of this world expanded their profit centered conglomerates. Re color: anyone who loves good and pure Scotch or Irish whiskies know what color real aged spirit is. I've had plenty of 10 and 13 year olds that are light straw in color. Rum is not only heavily colored, but often uses illegal dark caramel which modifies the flavor and body as well.

As Richard Seale said to me of rum: "It's the wild west out there". Most rum is grossly altered. Fortunately there are a wonderful few which are relatively pure.
Pain or damage don't end the world. or despair or fucking beatings. The world ends when you're dead. Until then, you got more punishment in store. Stand it like a man... and give some back. -Al Swearengen (Deadwood)
sleepy
King of Koffee
Posts: 156
Joined: Tue Nov 13, 2012 7:23 pm
Location: Atlanta and points south

Post by sleepy »

Brilliant rave Cap'n - I have walked into my local now and see an entire rack of Cruzan flavored crap and wonder what happened to the labels with a very few, general drinkable offerings. Now I have a better idea. I still find the "single barrel" (not that I bought that for a rum anyway) a pleasant, inoffensive sip, but one that one, probably will not be replaced when dry.
NCyankee
Admiral
Posts: 232
Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2010 1:52 am

Post by NCyankee »

Cap'n - I have two different bottlings of Talisker Scotch, the 10 yr and the rather hard-to-find these days 18 yr. To hold them side by side they are nearly indistinguishable by color, but the tastes are quite distinct.
User avatar
Capn Jimbo
Rum Evangelisti and Compleat Idiot
Posts: 3550
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2006 3:53 pm
Location: Paradise: Fort Lauderdale of course...
Contact:

Post by Capn Jimbo »

Color is as color does...


What does that mean? Hell if I know, but it sounded knowing. It was not until I start buying good single malts that I understood what the natural color of spirit really is.

. . . . . . . Image


As for rum, not only is E-150 used, but more than a few suspect the improper use of dark and brown caramels for completely unnatural colors and caramel flavor. Mouthfeel and smoothness are also imitated by the use of added sugars and glycerol. It's really a wild west, travelling snake oil show out there. Compare to John Glaser (search for the Great King St. post)...
Post Reply