Expert's Dept: Richard Seales speaks to additives...

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Capn Jimbo
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Expert's Dept: Richard Seales speaks to additives...

Post by Capn Jimbo »

We've long respected Richard Seales...


Established members have heard how Richard came into our lives. We were brand new to rum and attended one of Robert Burr's Coral Gable's rum tastings in Old Florida. The special guest: Richard Seale.

The treat of the evening was his speech, which he concluded by saying he had a very special new rum to introduce. The crowd was excited. Each attendee at the tasting was poured a dram of the mystery dram, whereupon Richard announced a contest. "I'm going to ask three questiions" he said, "and the winner will receive a bottle of my Seales Ten". The questions?

1. Is it cane juice or molasses based?
2. Is it pot or continuously distilled?
3. And how old is it?

The audience - of which quite a few were experienced tasters - by consensus believed it was molasses based, pot-stilled and seven years old.

Richard then did the big reveal. "You're all wrong". It's a brand new molasses based, column distilled rum that I phonied up to taste old, complex and pot-stilled. We'd all been had and good, but he gave away the prize anyway.

We never forgot that or Richard and the indelible impression he left. He concluded with the fact that there are absolutely no additives in any of his rums, and further that "every single drop of rum in my bottles is at least the age on the label". He further noted that unless he bottles a rum for a third party, he will not produce it. I'm sure you understand why.


About sugar...

As some know, we are currently engaged in a good thread about added sugar in which we were speculating about what kind of sugar distillers use to phony up rum. I then thought to drop Richard an email and asked him:
Moi:

"Richard a couple questions: In general (and not naming any names), when distillers add unlabeled sugar to a rum -

1. What are their purposes?
2. What kind of sugar (eg white refined, raw) is added and in what form?
3. How and when might it be added in the process?

Of course we are aware that you do not engage in this practice. Again, we have no interest in any particular rum, but more in general for distillers or bottlers who may engage in this practice.
His answers (sans personal matter):
"The sugar post in Refined Vices by Count Silvio originated on my FB page. Check it out. Your Save Caribbean Rum page is a friend of my Foursquare Distillery page.

To your questions :

1. Purpose.

Ultimately nefarious. Having said that there are some rums that are good rums that tradition and the desire to make more palatable have added sugar (same principle applies to cognac). But...............

a) Much rum is not made by beverage stills. The rum is produced by large industrial stills and get to call this industrial bland spirit rum for no other reason other than it is from sugar cane. This bland spirit is rendered "rum" by adding colour, flavourings and sugar. Even when aged, the bland spirit often has a bitter woody taste so sugar/flavourings are used to make palatable. You will see this link if you look for it, look at the rums with sugar, look at the distilleries behind them (there are exceptions of course).

b) We pay for fine spirits because of perceived intrinsic value. We pay top $ for a fine aged rum or aged whisky because the concept of craft, of aging, creates perceived value in our minds and justifiably so. Where there is value there will be attempted counterfeiting. There are fake rums out there, made cheaply from bland spirits with little or no aging (or wood infusions) and they use colour, flavourings and sugar (and a beautiful package) to create the perception of a premium product which of course you the consumer will attach a premium value. These rums are not hard to spot. They are often from overnight brands, have incredible age claims which simply do not make sense. (where were you 10 years ago, yet you just released some 21 year old?). What does "solera 25" even mean?

Sugar is thus generally used to deceive.

Some consumers say "but I like the taste of xyz....."

That is not the issue. We do not expect you to buy something you do not like. We all like things that taste good. A pina colada tastes good. The issue is intrinsic value. Are we to believe that this finely distilled, aged 20+ years rum is so good, worth my top $$$ but curiously needed 40g/l of sugar before bottling? How come my 30 year scotch is just fine without it?


2. What kind of sugar

No idea but I suspect white sugar in syrup form.


3. How added?

Usually just blended at the end I think although I have heard about people aging a concentrate (ie some kind of rum syrup)."
My good friends, you've heard bits and pieces of this for quite some time, but now you've heard it from someone we all respect, and whose skill and artistry is unchallenged. Richard, I've thanked you privately, but here thank you publicly not only for support of Save Caribbean Rum, but also for continuing to create and produce the kind of pure and unadulterated quality rums that we hope to preserve.

Many of our posters have already sworn off altered rums regardless of how they may taste, as we prefer both the concept and actuality of rums like yours.

More to follow...
Last edited by Capn Jimbo on Mon Feb 10, 2014 6:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
da'rum
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Post by da'rum »

Good one Jimbo. Thanks Richard.
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JaRiMi
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Post by JaRiMi »

Extremely interesting and good information from a great source!!
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Capn Jimbo
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Post by Capn Jimbo »

And yet again, here's Richard...



Here's another treat for you true lovers of true rum. In our correspondence, Richard also shared this partial transcript of a recent speech he made...

"Sweet rums tend to be perceived as older by consumers... How is the sugar added and should it age with the rum ?

I suspect this lie is propagated by those who mislead about the addition of sugar. How ironic because then they are purporting we can fake age just by adding sugar. Perhaps we have discovered why they do it.

We produce rum to the highest industry standards and those standards preclude the addition of sugar. This is part of the Caricom standard. Justifiably so, as sugar is a flavour enhancer and our brains are hard wired by evolution to desire it.

Rum has a real problem with sugar. A rum enthusiast recently shared his test results. He tested 62 rums labeled as premium and found 52 contained sugar. More troubling 40 of the 52 contained 16g/l or more of sugar which is the legal limit in cognac (the limit in whisky is zero). We have a cognitive dissonance here. The more "premium" the rum, seemingly the more sugar it needs to "adjust" its flavour. From the results published by Systembologet we see the opposite with cognac with the cheaper ones having some moderate sugar while the expensive ones have very low levels.

The sugar problem masks a bigger issue. Much "rum" production is not by traditional beverage stills like whisky and cognac but by enormous industrial alcohol production plants. The spirits lack body and complexity of true beverage spirits and sugar together with colour and possibly other additives are used to mask these deficiencies. If the rum industry does not get sugar and additives under control we will forever be the poor relation to whisky and cognac.

Some good rums have sugar added, all the bad ones do."
Gnaw on this one for awhile. If you found any expecially important, or surprising information in these two reveals, please do share them. Next up?

What we found new and interesting...
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Dai
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Post by Dai »

Nice to hear off Richard on the subject. We thank him for taking the time to explain these things to us.

Looks like my favorite rums (El Dorado) are over rated, since they have one of the highest sugar levels among premium rum. I recently sent Cadenhead an email on there rum prices still waiting for a reply.
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Post by sleepy »

It would be fascinating to know what the "sugar concentration" of a first pass raw rum is. Does any sugar carry through a pot still? A column still?

How does the sugar profile change with aging in oak? Are sugars created in the EtOH-cellulose interaction over time?

Is Pusser's unique flavor due to adding a touch of still-sweet dunder to the final blend - adding both the oakum/gunpowder overtones, and filling them with the sugar?
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Post by JaRiMi »

sleepy wrote:It would be fascinating to know what the "sugar concentration" of a first pass raw rum is. Does any sugar carry through a pot still? A column still?

How does the sugar profile change with aging in oak? Are sugars created in the EtOH-cellulose interaction over time?

Is Pusser's unique flavor due to adding a touch of still-sweet dunder to the final blend - adding both the oakum/gunpowder overtones, and filling them with the sugar?
Sugar does not come through distillation. Aging in oak does not add sugar to the spirit, in the content and terms we discuss it here - otherwise whisky would also contain xxx grams of sugar due to this, and it does not. If the cask has been used previously for very sweet stuff like PX sherry, and the cask contains litres of this in the wood, then some sweetness is passed on. Most rum is matured in ex-Bourbon casks which do not contain significant sugar amounts that could be measured as say 10 grams / litre..
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Post by Hassouni »

Actually bourbon casks shouldn't have any sugar in them either. I would think only sherry, port, etc.
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Post by JaRiMi »

Hassouni wrote:Actually bourbon casks shouldn't have any sugar in them either. I would think only sherry, port, etc.
That is precisely what I meant - no measurable amount of sugar, even if the wood is caramellized by toasting, and imparts vanillin etc in flavours.
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Post by sleepy »

JaRiMi Wrote wrote:]Sugar does not come through distillation.
In a lab still and most column stills, I would certainly agree. Pot stills and rustic column stills, I'm not so sure. I'd love to see the numbers.
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Post by da'rum »

Sugar definitely doesn't come through in distillation. Heat sugar up to 80 degree celsius and see how much vapour it releases.
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