Slippery Slope Dept: Bearmark, Bourbon and Total Wine

[Capn Jimbo]

What's gone on is well...


...still going on. And what's that? The grinding takeover by the mega-corporations. Even when we suffer a (rare) disagreement, I love the Bearmeister. He's intelligent, respectful and a good friend to the Project. Remember the Mellow Corn and Cleveland Whisky reviews? He loves, respects and yes, will defend bourbons that he likes. If you haven't checked out his site, you should. The Bear is part of a nice tasting group that accesses some of the most inviting, expensive and often hard-to-find whiskies and bourbons.


Which leads to the issue...

WTF is going on with Total Wine and frankly all the other larger retailers? As you'll see, a silly question. When I visit Bear's site, or he posts one of his bourbon recommendations here, like all lovers of good spirit, it's a turn on. But yet many of the bourbons Mark reviews and recommends are not seen on our shelves.

With the failure of rum, bourbon has become a new path for many of us to explore, how can we when retailers like Total carry such a limited selection. To be fair, Total et al are not devoid of some good offerings, but they're just very limited, especially for some of the intriguing craft offerings like Balcones or Rock Town. A shame.

No doubt I'm late to this game...

...and I know this is not real news, but inasmuch as the focus here was largely on rum, we simply didn't notice that the mega's takeover is not limited to that section. The big get bigger and just like beer taps (search on Beer Wars), shelf space is limited and they have the power to own nearly all of it.

Thus we seem to be left with mail order. Though this is an avenue, we lose the ability to browse, pick up and read bottles, compare and contrast, not to mention shipping costs which make it necessary to order multiple products. That's not how we roll. Sue Sea and I love to browse, discuss and finally to choose just one. In addition to bourbon, the takeover also keeps many selection off the shelves at our local Indian shops (whose buyers were much more knowledgeable) - thus fewer dusty close outs on hard-to-find stuff that just didn't sell!

Such is life.

[da'rum]

Yep I see the big influence that disgraceful diageo has on the shops and online sellers here as well. We still can get most non big 3 labels but the scourge has definitely got their talons in this market.

[The Black Tot]

I don't think bourbons are being intentionally withheld by the corporate merchants...

There's just not enough of the best stuff to go around. There are rolling blackouts even on standard production Buffalo Trace staples these days. It's far from time to panic, because there're so many good alternatives that there really isn't such thing as "nothing good to buy".

Having said this, I have managed to avoid the megacorp liquor sellers for quite some time now. When my small guy stores don't have what I want, I ask "can you order me some?", and usually they can. I miss some releases, but I have a better success rate than begging the "bourbon guy" at the big stores, and dealing with the "call every day" "system".

Most importantly, I walk out of the store feeling good, instead of feeling like part of some greater sickness.

Perhaps the friendly store owner solution is most appropriate if you're buying by the case or at least a few bottles such that their cost is covered, or if you know ethically that the rest of that case will move in his or her store. But most of the special stuff is by 6 or 3 case anyway, so that's not too heavy a burden, especially if you can go in with a buddy.

We recently had a Total Wine open in San Antonio near where my girlfriend grew up. She went in looking professional and asked to speak to the manager. She explained that we buy a lot of high end spirits and we would really like to be one of their regular customers of higher end releases, and we would like them to keep us in mind specifically for a bottle here and there of the more highly allocated releases, given the year round business we would be bringing them.

They told her "We don't do that. If you want something, call every day". Basically, "we don't need you, and we don't have to help you".

So now, Total Wine is our last resort. A shame, since they carry the Berry's line. But probably my little guys can get those too if I ask. We will play hell trying, before we give Total a dollar. We look after those who are willing to look after us, and are willing to sacrifice some convenience for that.

Let these megastores instead deal with the flippers, with whom they can experience a transaction mutually devoid of respect and consideration.

Jimbo, I'm surprised Total is still your go-to - a man of your ethics and humanity. Can't you find a local small guy whom you'd have a much better experience ordering through?

This is all dependent of course on the manager. I have heard of some of the megacorp locations having a manager who DOES recognize and look after his regulars. Haven't experienced it yet, but I understand it's out there. Obviously my remarks of condemnation don't apply to those locations or people.

[Capn Jimbo]

Tot: "Jimbo, I'm surprised Total is still your go-to - a man of your ethics and humanity. Can't you find a local small guy whom you'd have a much better experience ordering through? "


A fair question, really. Old time readers know that we spent more of our time at the many independent stores - most run by Indian (India) families who are great businessmen, who bought and displayed a far better selection - and - at often better prices. Example: I actually found a fair priced Pappy there. Another: a full liter Pussers Blue for $19. Unlike Total/ABC/Crown corporate stores, these small outlets and mini-chains were run by very knowledgable guys who really knew their spirits, and were always willing to carry a few. And they weren't opposed to discounting some of the dusties.

Their rum selections dwarfed Total's in terms of both selection and price! When I raise Total or ABC now it's more to illustrate the corporate trends.

Good eyes, thanks for the comment - you are exactly right.

[The Black Tot]

Knew it had to be like that...

I still use the websites of the big chains to watch for the timing of releases.

...then I try to buy them elsewhere. Ha!

It's a known fact that spirits taste better this way!

[bearmark]

I also use Total Wine for price reference, since their personnel are not very knowledgeable and they offer no personal service except for special orders. I do check their stock often because they're close to work and I stop in on my lunch break. Spec's and Goody Goody are the other big chains here and both offer personalized service and will reward their loyal customers. In the case of Spec's, they also have knowledgeable people. The best bet is the independent stores though. They charge a bit more, but they offer the better accessibility to rare releases and they offer the best service. I just discovered another place yesterday that I'll frequent more.

I also never use mail order for spirits. Instead, I visit the various chains and independent stores on my travels. It's more fun and I get to talk to someone about the product or even taste it before I buy. There are products that I've not been able to find that are available for a slight premium online, but I still don't bother. I'm not in a rush and it's all about experience for me.

[Capn Jimbo]

Just for giggles, I begged Sue Sea to accompany me to our old favorite Indian (India) owned small local chains and independents...


...after we did I wasn't laughing anymore. I'd hoped beyond hope that the mega's hadn't gotten to these very independent and very astute Indian owners. These gentleman really know their spirits and customers and in the past were known to carry MANY hard to find labels - and - to sell spirits often below Total Wine. Fantastic!

No more.

The first store was a total disappointment. The rum section used to occupy about 30 feet, five shelves high. The top three shelves used to be a true selection of Caribbean rums, cachacas, even a pisco or two, with the crapola mostly on the bottom two, or may three shelves at times. And now?

A handful - literally - of good rums on the out-of-reach top 5th shelf (usually reserved for overage and backup). The rest was owned by the mega's. I knew the manager - heck, I'd probably purchased 40 rums from him - and said "You remember me and your old selection. What is heaven's name has happened?"

Normally the store is very busy with maybe 4 guys moving around the store, but today it was the manager and one other. Even so, he took time to walk around the store with me, as I questioned the takeover in every department except his wines.

His answer was honest. "It's the Asian market," he said, "the demand there is tremendous and growing. The companies really treat us now as a leftover market. The distributors (remember, it's a three level system) offer us just what you see, regardless of what we really want and request. They could get it they really wanted to, but feel why bother? And they're right, we have to take what they offer and sell it." (paraphrased). He was clearly troubled and made no effort to hide his disappointment. He loves good spirit. As for the second store - better - but the mega madness was evident here too.

It really is a race to the bottom, to the lowest common denominator. The three tier system - distiller, distributor, retailer - was designed to encourage competition, but has been manipulated by the mega's to achieve just the opposite.

I've noted for example some of the very interesting craft and other bourbons (like Willet) that Bear has tasted and recommended, but can I find them, hold them, read them, buy them here? No! FWIW, mail order may suffice, but not really, and is a turn off for many, including us.

Nothing serves the us - the end customer - better than wide availability and a little good competition in the local market. When only a handful of mail order outlets carry something hard to find, they know it, and price accordingly. The end result...

Things only get worse...

[Capn Jimbo]

Now do I like reporting this stuff?


No fackin way! If you hate reading it, trust me, I hate writing it. I'd much rather report a great new local bargain on a nice small production spirit. We'd much rather be exploring, bragging about a new find, and writing a review. I'd rather report a comeback in selection, competion and pricing.

But the truth is the truth, and such changes as above - for better or in this case, for worse - have to be noted. It's clear that Murray is in the game as well, Cowdery and Ralfy too are speaking out. De Kergommeaux and Dave Broom even signed the Petition because they knew the truth of it, and felt adding their signatures helped.

Both Sue Sea and I are so sorry and like you, I trust that we all pray for better news, which as always, you'll read here...