So let's just say an infamous commercial rum website dedicated to its fearless leader was treated to this fascinating question:
This is actually quite a good question by a brand new monkey who obviously doesn't recognize quicksand in the jungle. So what cane juice rums - er "agricoles" - were recommended that are "a bit more in the vein of Barbancourt"?Merlino: "So far I've tried Saint James Ambre, Clement VSOP and Rhum JM VSOP from Martinique. I can understand why they are a bit of an acquired taste. They're all fine in tiki drinks, but with the exception of Rhum JM I really didn't care for sipping them, and even the JM bottle took quite some time to finish.
I've now for the first time tried Barbancourt (3 star), and I must say I absolutely loved it. Much more than the three rums from Martinique that I've tried. Now my question is: are there any other agricoles that I can try next that are a bit more in the vein of Barbancourt (5 star and 15yo of course already on the wishlist)?"
None really. In fact one of the grizzled Alphas immediately dropped this hot steamy one:
Oh my! We're back to the myth that somehow the 1992 invention of the AOC designation on a single island takes precedence over nearly 200 years of well understood use of the name to describe - quite simply - cane juice rums that pretty much originated in Haiti. Our good man Merlino - now thoroughly confused and clearly naive enough to press on asks this:"Strictly speaking, Barbancourt rums aren't really agricoles. You've probably noticed yourself that they don't have the same "agricole" flavour."
Another butt-kissing Alpha - obviously fearing for Merlino, attempts to gently steer him away to? To the Grand Poobah's Neisson, to wit "I don't know how it compares to Barbancourt, but I suspect you will really like Neisson Rhum Réserve Spéciale". This is a neat trick, ie knowing that the newbie will love the Neisson, despite not knowing Merlino's favored Barbancourt. Are these like the movie suggestions Netflix makes?Merlino:
"Just to be sure, what do you mean by not agricole? Not from Martinique? The Barbancourt tastes quite a bit more mellow than any of the three Rhums from Martinique I've tried. "
Merlino - ever naive - just won't give up:
What none of these geniuses seem to understand is that Barbancourt goes to tremendous time and trouble to properly age their cane juice rum at lower alcohol and for substantially more years. Most cane juice rums ("rhum agricoles" for the snobs) made in Martinique are either (a) very young or (b) only modestly aged. All are amazinging overpriced, based on their self-created label. To wit:"What exactly makes an agricole? Does it have to be from Martinique, or is there something else to it that the Barbancourt is not? The fact that it doesn't have as much of the grassy flavour is probably what makes it such an approachable rum.
Martinique cane juice rums:
1. White (relatively unaged)
2. Paille (straw colored, 12 to 15 months)
3. Ambre (gold, 18 to 24 months)
4. Vieux (amber, 3 to 6 years, ie 3 years)
5. Hors d' Age (6 to 10 years, ie 6 years)
The hairy Alphas commentary claims that Barbancourt Five Star is somehow inferior because it has lost the reedy, caney element. The fact that the longer aged, 8 year Barbancourt is being compared to substantially younger rums in the ambre to vieux category (aged 1-1/2 to 3 years) escapes them. Their most common comparisons are to the whites, the St. James Ambre (18 mo) and the Clement VSOP (4 years). What they should be comparing to are the Barbancourt White and the Three Star (4 year). But that would be sensible, forgive me.
The ensuing convo is a back and forth on whether a cane juice rum has to have the AOC label to be an agricole, with the Alphas finally backing off and admitting they're really not sure. The orginal Alpha now emphatically asserts that while agricoles may be made anywhere, the AOC's must come from Martinique (correct) or Guadeloupe (wrong). To protect his monkey ego he admits that the term "agricole" is commonly applied to cane juice rums from Reunion and Mauritius (forgetting about nine other countries) but insists "...that term isn't very often used to describe Haitian rums. ".
Mind you these are the long-haired Alphas who by now should have long known there is no "debate" about what is and is not a cane juice rum, and never has been.
I guess that's the only way they can justify their look-at-me 6 year old AOC Rhum Clement XO (6 year blend, roughly $200) to Barbancourt's Five Star world class, 5-star 8 year at just $23. Calling Barbancourt an "agricole" well, that just isn't possible, is it? So if not an "agricole" just what is it? Silence.
A quick look at cost:
Clement
Premiere Canne (white): $34 to $42
VSOP ( 4 year): $50 to $65
XO (6 year): $200 to $240
I won't even waste your time quoting Barbancourt's White, 4 year Three Star, or the 8 year Five Star. I could make a good living just rebottling Barbancourt, coming up with a total mooseshit history, Sidney Frank bottle and label and doubling or tripling the price.
The Invisisible White Line
Finally, Merlino crosses the invisible white line when he posts:
DJ - an Alpha who knows better - carries the "agricole funk" just a bit too facking fur, er far, when he chirps in:Merlino:
"(My only interest is) ...in discovering agricoles that take a sort of middle ground between the truly hardcore agricoles and the softer Haitian Barbancourt (so as not to call it an agricole ).
The La Mauny you mentioned, is that a good entry level agricole in terms of not too much agricole funk, DJ Mal? And how about the La Mauny ambre? That one seems more readily available here in the Netherlands."
Let's get real. "Funk" is a relative term, perhaps best applied to the use of super-ripe, 20 year old "dunder" uh, fresh out of the pit and used as starter for a new ferment in Jamaica. That's the real funking truth. But to sugar-saturated simians the absence of sugar and artificial flavorings in cane juice rums - especially young ones - might be misinterpreted as a kind of funk. I mean, really, nothing wrong with that. It's different. It's vegetal. It's reedy, caney. To some, it's funk. BFD."I've only noticed a funk in some of the unaged agricoles. For me just a year of aging takes out the funk."
Fair enough. But not for the Man, who takes great offense at reading this perfectly accurate and rather positive term of the hoi polloi. He refuses to use the word "funk" in relation to his overpriced Martian cane juice rums for the very same reason others of his ilk refuse to apply the term "agricole" to those fine cane juice rums made in their view anyway, by 3rd World peasants? No way! His assertion?
He said this, really. Those who use the term "funk" rather like the term for both its accuracy, as an indicator of the Jamaican style, and for the monkeys at least, as an indicator of a young cane juice rum. But the Man doesn't like the term, that's clear, and you can be sure the term will accordingly be used again with only the greatest hesitation.Edward:
"I read a lot about funk on this forum and in the bartender community. What I consider to be funk is not a good thing. Well made agricole, or any other rum, shouldn't have anything offensive in the aroma or taste. If, however, the sugar cane isn't fresh, or the fermentation was rushed or bacteria was allowed to grow in the fermentation you will get some sour flavors that I associate with what I hear referred to as funk.
In agricole in particular, the flavor should be fresh, not musty. When I drink a well made agricole rhum I can see and taste the sugar cane from which it was made. "
And whose fault is that? Poor Merlino, I'm afraid - whose days may be numbered - but I've got to give him this: in his naivete he asks the most innocent, yet devastating questions, and just won't stop...
"Thanks Edward. Do you mean to say that some brands display that funk and are inferior to other brands, or are all brands prone to funk from time to time?
What would be your suggestion re a good starting agricole? Many thanks!"
