As those of you who appreciate history and tradition (which should be all of you), "rum" - as undefined as it was - was the coin of the realm until about the time of the American Revolution (see Rye? Rye not?, this section). After that domestic rye dominated American spirits and taste until - are you sitting down? - 1960!
Wow!
And it wasn't just because rye was a common, hardy and distillable grain. Nope, a good rye has much in common with rum, and you owe it to yourself to have at least one rye whisky on your shelves.
Here at The Project we've tried three economical but respected ryes for a comparison: Jim Beam Rye, Old Overholt (same distillate as Beam, but aged differently) and the venerable Wild Turkey (about 100 proof)...
Jim Beam
Sue Sea: Beam opens with a strong rye bread aroma, very grainy and earthy over a background of spices (ginger, cinnamon, cloves). Think of pumpkin pie spices for a baked, toasted effect. Very nice.
The palate was totally solid! Balanced and consistent with growing heat and spices, front to back, and ending with a lovely, lingering hot white pepper finish. Sophisticated, and with the kind of intense finish that begs for another sip.
Me: Beam begines with a sour rye aroma over a warm sweetness, along with Sue Sea's spices. The corn sweetness (ryes are 51% rye, with the rest mostly corn, perhaps a touch of wheat) was subdued.
The palate opens with an early corn sweetness, with spices building early to a late rye. The finish is a lasting white and black pepper.
Old Overholt
Sue Sea: I like Old Overholt. It's early aroma is similar but with a bit more alcohol prickle. The sour rye is a bit more apparent, more pungent.
Overholt likewise opens with a corn sweetness, but it is less prevalent than the Beam. The mid palate moves into a dry heat, a dry rye - like rye toast without butter. In comparison Beam is more creamy in texture. Overholt's finish is dry and hot and may remind you of a cane juice rum.
Me: I'm with Sue Sea on the open, Beam gives a slightly richer, warmer impression. The early palate is a light, sweet corn, moving quickly and steadily toward an astringent dry rye, hot white pepper finish that leaves a pleasant lasting glow.
Wild Turkey Rye (100 proof)
Sue Sea: Wild Turkey Rye was the last rye we tasted. According to Jim, it is a well respected, flavorful rye. And it was! Wild Turkey opens with the same spices, but presents as sweeter and deeper, with bits of raisin, plum, prune. A more baked and sweeter impression. The taste is more complex. It is consistent with the deeper fruits I mentioned with even a dark, ripe bing cherry emerging. I immediately thought of Mount Gay Extra Old. All carry smoothly through the spicy warm finish. Lovely.
Me: There is no doubting that Wild Turkey is a rye, but deeper and richer, sweeter, warmer and more fruity. The palate opens with a consistent rich, deep warmth, with the rye very much in balance, and as Sue Sue noted, moving smoothly to a warm, sweetish hot finish.
The higher proof is apparent. It is good tasting practice to sip first at full strength, then add perhaps a half teaspoon of water to further release the aromas and flavors, and to level the playing field.
The Bottom Line:
Rye replaced rum and we can see why. Even these early ryes were less manipulated, certainly reflected American pride and homegrown rye grain, and still offered a wonderful balance of sour rye and sweet corn distillates providing the experience (as opposed to additives, sugar and flavorings).
For rum drinkers we'd recommend:
1. If you prefer molasses based rums, especially of the Bajan style, go for the Wild Turkey, about $22 but it will go farther at 100 proof. I fell into this class.
2. If you appreciate cane juice rums, you'll love the dry rye of Old Overholt, a very old and respected brand (and which sells for an idiot-proof $12).
3. If you appreciate both, the Jim Beam Rye is very, very nice - balanced and warm, about $20.
If you don't give a shit, you're a monkey and need to go back to the Shillery...
from a friend in Noo Joiyzee.