Angry Wife Dept: "You never talk to me!"

[Capn Jimbo]

A good relationship must be nurtured...


Years ago when Ed Hamilton (who has demanded that I not use his name) refused to accept my resignation from his once respected commercial site - The Rum Project was born, and the main site (link at the Frog, above) was the result, quickly followed by this, the Rum Project Forum.

It was at the point where I was struggling with the varied sections: of course the basic styles, but what else? But at a point a former poster kept bugging me over a missing cane juice spirit...

Cachaca.

As was our way, we had a bit of a dialogue over this one, he prevailed and I said "Fine! You want a Cachaca section? Good you've got one, but guess what? Only if you moderate it." He took me up on the challenge and for some time, and did a nice job of it too. Ultimately he left The Project when the ultimate debate - on Z-23 - came to an end. And was not heard from again, until recently, and it was back to the future and poof - he opted out and got his wish.




Cachaca - the ignored wife!

Like angry wives, cachaca wants some attention. Yes, it's a great category that deserves attention, but no - there aren't that many cachaca's imported into the US, and the one's that make it to the shelves are commercial afterthoughts. It has been argued that Brazil may have been the home of rum, and Brazil now has literally thousands of labels. The amount of cachaca distilled and sold puts most other spirits to shame. Da'rum should note that everybody's grandfather makes it too, and I have had the pleaure of tasting some home distilled product from smuggled in by a Brazilian co-worker, made by her father.

Today, NCyankee added a couple of posts to this category, and I'm glad he did.

[bearmark]

The two in question are:

• Fazenda Mãe de Ouro Cachaça - 94 (previously a 91 per your previous post)
  Leblon Natural Cane Cachaça - 91 (previously a 92)

The new ratings get the order right, but the difference in these two is greater than indicated here. To be fair, Leblon was my first Cachaça and I liked it until reading Kevin's recommendation and going to great lengths to secure a few bottles of Mãe de Ouro in Houston. The difference is significant and immediately noticeable without even performing a direct comparison. Leblon is bold and harsh, needing the lime and sugar to make it drinkable, whereas the Mãe de Ouro is nicely balanced and even enjoyable neat (i.e. you can actually like Cachaça, rather than just Caipiriñhas with this one). The only thing exceptional (per the 90-94 BTI rating) is it's availability. Don't take my word for it though... try them for yourself. I wish I could find Germana as well.

As to BTI, what do you mean? Germana and Mae de Ouro absolutely dominate their cachaca ratings, with repeated reviews notably higher than the Leblons, which are way down the list. Go to this page, check off "all cachacas" and run the search:

http://www.tastings.com/search_spirits.lasso

[Capn Jimbo]

Context is important...

From BTI's current ratings:

96 • Fazenda Mãe de Ouro Barrel Reserve 5 Year Old Cachaça.

Bright copper color. Complex aromas and flavors of banana creme brulee and blossoms, meringue, dried autumn fruits, and delicate waxy minerality with a satiny smooth, fruit-yet-dry medium-to-full body and a long, straw, tobacco, pepper, and chalk accented finish. A remarkably complex and layered world-class, wood-aged cachaça that will be fantastic as a digestif or with cigars. (tasted on Feb-06-2013)

96 • Germana "Brasil" Cachaça $59.99.

Golden straw color. Rich caramelized plantain, cocoa dusted nuts, and spice aromas with a rich, dry-yet-fruity full body and a long, cane stalk, vanilla souffle, peppery dust, golden raisin compote, and mild fuel-like mineral accented finish. A sensationally vibrant and flavorful cachaça for sipping or jaw-dropping cocktails. (tasted on Nov-23-2010)

95 • Germana Heritage Cachaça $79.

Golden copper color with a olive cast. Deep aromas of spicy frosted banana nut cake, mashed raisins, cherry bonbons, leather and marinating spices follow through on a round, supple entry to a dry-yet-fruity medium-full body with cola nut, roasted nut and mineral notes. Finishes with a long, complex, and evolving sweet tobacco leaf and praline fade. Impressive and made for long contemplative sipping. (tasted on Dec-01-2009)

94 • Fazenda Mãe de Ouro Cachaça/L.

Clear with a nickel straw cast. Aromas and flavors of fresh meringue, plantain skin, Brazil nuts, straw mat, and earthy cane stalk with a silky dryish medium body and coconut water, dried tropical fruit, peppery spice, soil and banana leaf accented finish. Great purity and sense of place. The perfect cachaça for elegant and innovative cocktails. (tasted on Nov-30-2012)

93 • Reserva 51 Cachaça Extra Premium $95/700ml.

Bright deep golden color. Bold aromas of buttery toasted coconut, dried apricot, and caramelized roasted nuts follow through on a rich, supple entry to a dry-yet-fruity full body with carefully layered oak barrel flavors of cocoa, vanilla and spice. Finishes with a long, evolving fade with cachaça-like nuances of cane stalk and banana leaf underneath the generous wood tones. A very serious, bourbon-like wood aged cachaça for the snifter not the shaker. (tasted on Dec-01-2009)

93 • Colinas do Sul Cachaça $27.99.

Clear with a pale platinum straw cast. Rich aromas of spicy banana cake, caramelized nuts, suede, and anise cookie follow through on a soft, silky entry to a rich off-dry medium-to-full body with excellent depth and balance. Finishes with a long plantain pudding, cane, powdered sugar and anise accented fade. Delicious, vibrant, and very mixable. (tasted on Dec-01-2009)

92 • INOX Original Double Distilled Cachaça $32.
Bold aromas of banana nut bread, caramel gelato, and nougat with a supple, fruity-yet-dry medium body and a long, warming and creamy, poached pear, and brown spice accented finish. Vibrant, flavorful and stylish. (tasted on Nov-29-2011)

92 • Germana Soul Cachaça $29.

Clear. Inviting aromas of dried banana chips, sea salt, dried fowl, and rain water on a jungle leaves follow through on a soft, silky entry to an off-dry medium-to-full body with great depth and vibrancy. Finishes with a long, cane stalk, anise seed, and wet mineral accented fade. A delicious, vibrant and balanced cachaça. (tasted on Dec-01-2009)

91 • Leblon Natural Cane Cachaça $29.99/L.


Aromas of toasted banana meringue, powdered sugar, and peppered plantain with a silky fruity-yet-dry medium body and a long, praline, banana leaf, and peppery spice finish. A zesty, flavorful cachaça that will be great in cocktails. (tasted on Nov-29-2011)

90 • Leblon Seleção Verde Cachaça $60/375 ml.

Bright aromas banana pie and white pepper with a zesty, fruity-yet-dry medium-full body and a long, warming, dried tropical fruit, vanilla nut brittle, radish, and cream finish. A bold, rustic cachaça. (tasted on Nov-29-2011)

90 • Germana 2 Años Tradicional Cachaça $29.99.
Aromas of sautéed bananas and coconuts, chai, meringue, and caramelized nuts with a soft, silky dry-yet-fruity medium-to-full body and lingering gravely mineral, dried cherry, cane stalk, and peppery spice finish. A smooth and balanced aged cachaca for modern, craft cocktails. (tasted on Nov-23-2010)

89 • Ypióca Ouro Cachaça $28.99/L.

Pale golden color. Aromas of raisin bread pudding, dried plantain, anise powder, and dusty oregano follow through on a soft, gentle entry to a dry-yet-fruity light-to-medium body with delicate caramel pudding and praline notes. Finishes with a warming wet slate, cane stalk, and white peppercorn fade. (tasted on Dec-01-2009)

89 • Cachaça Samanaú Prata Cachaça $25/500 ml. Certified Organic

Clear with a nickel cast. Aromas of toasted meringue, brown sugar, straw, and raisin soda bread with a supple, dryish medium body and a peppery, herb, cinnamon bark, mace, and mineral accented finish. Stylish with pleasant layers of flavor. (tasted on Nov-27-2012)

89 • Cachaça Samanaú Ouro Cachaça $30/500 ml. Certified Organic

Pale golden straw color. Aromas of nutmeg, cinnamon flan, dried fruit, and suede with a supple, dry-yet-fruity medium body and a warm creamy fig, graphite, cedar and pink peppercorn accented finish. A nicely aged cachaça for cocktails. (tasted on Nov-27-2012)

87 • Ypióca Crystal Cachaça $19.99/L.

Clear with a faint nickel straw cast. Aromas of wax, alpaca sweater and faint raisins follow through on supple entry to a off-dry medium body with plantain and coconut cream notes. Finishes with a pewter and peppery spice accented fade. Nice rustic cane character for caipirinhas, very authentic tasting with slight oak influence if any. (tasted on Dec-01-2009)

83 • BOSSA Premium Cachaça $28.

Clear. Vaporous aromas of white chocolate nut brittle, burnt sugar, and straw with a brash, off-dry medium body and a fiery, pepper, radish, banana yogurt, and slate driven finish. (tasted on Nov-29-2011)

83 • Cachaça 51 Cachaça $18.99/L.

Clear with nickel cast. Aromas of honey cream, grilled banana leaf, and delicate spice follow through on a soft, round entry to a mildly sweet medium body with hot peppercorn and toasted meringue notes. Finishes with a sugary, grainy, and peppery alcohol and turned earth fade. (tasted on Dec-01-2009)

Isn't that better? Of course. First, it's important to note that BTI has not reviewed all that many cachacas, so it's premature to analyze the distribution. But it is fair to look at general relationships, say in terms of low, middle and high scores. Only 15 cachacas were rated, and even these over four years. Not many.

Let's look at them in context:


' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '
Legend: The Mae de Ouro's are in the top tier yellow ratings, while the Leblon's are in the middle tier, green ratings.



Bottom Line:

In context, Mae de Ouro is solidly in the top tier, with the highest rated #1 cachaca, and also the the #3. Scores of 94 and higher are hard to come by at the BTI. Also in context the Leblon products clearly occupy the middle tier (and are even below the median a tad), and come in at #6 and #7, while the bottom tier is occupied by Ypicoa's at #8 and #9, and BOSSA and Cachaca 51 tied for #10.

Also keep in mind that Kevin's old post is way out of date and not terribly relevent. Products continue to change, and many of you know that batches do vary. It is important to look at the company and all it's products; likewise ratings need to be considered in toto and in context.

Hope that helps. BTW, Germana has long been known for its top quality so Mae de Ouro's top tier ratings are particularly meaningful.

[bearmark]

Okay. I guess this is the same thing that you were telling Kevin way back when (i.e. ignore the labels and look at the distribution). If you look at it that way, then it becomes more useful. It's just a shame that BTI ratings can't be more easily trusted (i.e. an Exceptional rating is reserved for an exceptional spirit) without analyzing their entire range of ratings on a spirit in order to determine the relative merit of the score.

I need Kevin to join in and help me with the argument.

[Capn Jimbo]

In a perfect world...


There would be no prejudice and no bias, and au contraire and unlike many other review sites, the BTI can absolutely be trusted. This is exactly why the Reviewer's Reviews were conducted and trust me, each one of these is a huge endeavor. We then report the findings which include:

1. Distribution, normal or skewed.

2. Reviews of certain key rums that have broadbased respect and consensus regarding their quality by certain reliable reviewers.

3. The number assigned.

What's most important in the end is the distribution: if the distribution is "normal", it exhbits a bell curve, with the most scores in the middle, and fewer and fewer toward the ends. Thus there should only be a very few 10's, matched by very few 5's (for a five star system). There is a complete explantation of this above the Reviewer's Reviews.

Read the Reviewer's Reviews to find out which reviewers are not biased in the sense of a normal distribution of scores, and then you can determine for yourself what minimum score floats your boat. It is also important to find a reviewer whose tastes tend to match your own.

In this case, BTI has reviewed just 15 cachaca's in four years, less than four per year. They simply haven't reviewed enough cachacas to be statistically meaningful for cachaca's alone. Way back when, I looked at all their rums - around 225 - the result was a terrific, absolutely normal distribution. Their protocol of multi-level blind tasting is unmatched.

Thus their reviews are those of blind consensus of experts vs. say a Dave Broom, who does not taste blind, but whose palate and honesty is without question. Both BTI and Broom are reliable and usable. In the end, it's our goal to give you the facts and understanding enough to make sense of things, so that you and you alone can knowingly decide for yourself which reviewers you are going to follow.

Are there arguments for and against? Absolutely, and they've all been well made (here), in a wonderful BTI debate, a good read and achieves the goal. Information enough. And now you can decide...

As for perfection? Fugedaboudit!