We are so very pleased to finally review a rum so special it nearly stands alone. Haiti and Barbancourt are synonymous with sugarcane, with Haiti arguably the first island in the Carribean to seriously grow sugarcane. At times Haiti procduced almost as much cane as the rest of the islands. The Habitation Barbancourt plantation was there from the beginning, and this French family began producing rum agricole around 1860. The company has remained in family hands since then.
Barbancourt's rhum agricoles are made from fresh cane vesou (wash) in the French style, harvested by hand from its own plantation as well as from over 200 nearby growers. Cane was originally transported for crushing and distillation by oxcart and some of it still is. Working phones are still a luxury in this poorest of countries. The fermented wash is double distilled with the final distillation in copper pot stills under the control of skilled artisans, to about 90% ABV. This is diluted to just 50% for aging, which requires extra years of aging but which results in a product described by Dave Broom "They don't only produce rum; they make rum with a finesse that is almost unsurpassed in the world."
Rhum snobs have a tendency to dismiss Barbancourt as operating outside of the AOC prison, er, system. What they can't dismiss is the fact that all of Barbancourt's products consistently receive the highest of ratings and reviews, matched only by a very few of the very expensive labels in Martinique. What also sticks in their throats is Five Star's easy availability and price.
$19. Yup, you read it right. Transplant Barbancourt to Martinique and you could easily quadruple the price. I'm serious. The reviews:
Sue Sea:
Me:I was sleeping in, locked away in my bedroom when I was awakened by the delicious smell of vanilla. "Aha!" I thought, "Jimbo's making vanilla pancakes". I finally stumbled toward the kitchen and to a much needed cup of coffee to accompany them when I realized the kitchen was empty. What was there was Jimbo's nearly empty IKEA tasting glass, having recently been filled with a shot of Barbancourt Five Star. We proceeded to taste and review the Five Star right then.
The aroma, as now evident was a heavenly robust vanilla with an immediate noticeable hint of cane, a bit of reedy straw and a light oak. I knew immediately this was an agricole, but so much better than the 10 Cane and St. James Ambre I'd tasted before. The aroma really draws you in, and arouses your senses. It is delicious and makes you want to drink it. On later reflection I definitely picked up a hint of pineapple. Five Star's body is medium and with a bit of crispness. I tasted a light honey, light oak, and light sensation of roasted pecan nuts - not heavy or candylike as pecan pie, but like the nut itself, roasted. The taste opens smoothly, light and pleasant then develops with a growing sweet spicy heat, like biting into a red pepper. It ends with a pleasant "kick" - not the "Jesus - Mary - Joseph!" kind, but a great warm kick that a real rum is all about. The finish is long, smooth, lingering and nicely warm with a little pepper, perfect, with a bit of caramel - like when a caramel melts in your mouth. This is a wonderful rum, one I'd definitely keep around.
Barbancourt is a rhum of immediately apparent quality and character. It is obvious this is a rhum made without compromise and at great expense in both time and money. That Barbancourt Five Star sells fora mere $19 defies rational analysis! I could make a handsome living simply buying this rhum retail, rebottling and renaming it appropriately and reselling it for four or five times as much. With rhum snobs shouting the praises of "Rhum Capitaine Enorme" and willing to wait in line for it. Five Star is smooth from beginning to end, with a light but sophisticated character. I'm a sucker for a great aroma - and Five Star has the kind that'll slow you way down just to make it last. The finish is likewise - smooth, lightly peppery and with a wonderful reassuring warmth and aftertaste. Five Star is consistent and balanced - sophisticated not harsh - light but interesting - pleasant and memorable.
Rating (10 is best): 8.
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Special Note: This score represents our bias toward fine molasses-based rums. With that in mind, "8" should be considered a very high score.