I love surprises.
And on yet another of my forays within the amazing Total Wine & Spirits emporium of hangovers, specifically the rum section, I happened upon a new rum from Barbados, the home of rum. Better yet, the price - $15. And way better yet, the distiller: Richard Seale at Foursquare.
Actually Alleyne Arthur was one of a number of smaller distillers remaining on Barbados, producing their "Special Barbados Rum" and the Brigand rums. Seales took over in 1993 and these named rums continue to be produced under the Alleyne Arthur name. Discovering the Special Barbados Rum was a treat, as we have come to respect anything made under Seales as generally superior. Yet, there was another attraction to this offering.
At Total Wine, the shelf talker claimed "made from cane juice, not molasses". (Note: this proved incorrect, see email from Richard Seale, below).
Now this was something! A cane juice rum from Barbados, from Richard Seale yet, simply must be explored. We were dying to see what a master could do with cane juice, so here we go...
Sue Sea:
Me:It's no secret that I really love Richard Seales, particularly his Seale's 10 Year molasses rum, one of only three rums I have rated "10", and my personal favorite (along with Rum San Pablo). Over the last year or so I have also developed a growing taste for earthy and authentic cane juice rums. So when Jim found the Special Barbados, a claimed "cane juice rum", sign me up!
Alleyne Arthur's Special Barbados Rum comes in an unpretentious, simple classic bottle, and equally simple gold label, featuring a windmill, cane and plantation. A non pretentious, screw top bottle.
Special Barbados opened with a crisp, fresh caney aroma, over a vanilla. I noted a nice slight "tartness", like a cut green apple, and a background of light leather. The front palate was a fresh wispy honey and bit of butterscotch, followed by a growing clove heat, with a touch of cinnamon and ginger. It concluded in a crecendo of spicy heat, white pepper and had what I call an exhale, along with a lip finish. I remember my childhood when my great-great Aunt Laudy gave me butterscotch hard candies that were not particularly sweet but full of butterscotch flavor, and that left a lingering dry aftertaste.
If I didn't know better, I call this a Cuban style rum. It is very well balanced and finishes in the Cuban manner. Muy caliente! Now mind you, we've had rums that are nothing but heat, but this rum by Seale is balanced beautifully, his signature as far as I'm concerned.
It's approachable, not boring and has the "I want another sip" finish, like all great rums. I don't know how he does it, but Richard's rums all seem to have this quality.
A very interesting rum I must say. The rum presents as a light clear amber with fast legs and leaving a pearl necklace. Do take care to nose with care and start high as there was a bit of alcohol prickle deep. The aroma is quite pleasant, a honeyed cane over a hint of what I call deep tar (and which Sue Sea calls leather). In subsequent nosings I found the spice that later arises. I love a rum that teases in this fashion.
The brief early palate is sweet and honeyed, quickly supplanted by a sweet and aggressive growing heat that quickly transitions from clove, to black and then to white pepper. A nice chest and lip warming astringent dry finish.
Except for the claim that this is a cane juice rum, I'd be tempted to place this in the Cuban style. Like Barbancourt Five Star and Montecristo, this rum proves that cane juice rums don't have to be as limited as the overpriced French rhums by regulation.
Rating (ten is best): Sue Sea - 9, Me - solid 8.