Reviewers' Awards: the Ultimate Bisexual Beverage Challenge

[Capn Jimbo]

Here's one you can count on... the ultimate beverage challenge! And it's bisexual!!


Let's first consider..

The Beverage Tasting Institute (BTI) of Chicago is known and respected by their scrupulous protocol and multiple judges/judging (see Reviewer's Reviews, this section). Accordingly their ratings fall into a wonderfully reassuring bell curve. At the other end of the scale are a literal handful of highly talented, respected and credible individuals. Think Dave Broom, F. Paul Pacult, Michael Jackson, Jim Parker, Janis Robinson and a few others.

The Ultimate Beverage Challenge is bisexual, with both a solid protocol and multiple judges/judging - and - led by a solid individual (Pacult). Let's start with their protocol:

"The purpose of Ultimate Spirits Challenge is to identify, recognize and reward those products which stand out in their respective categories, showing superior quality.

Multiple panels of the highest-qualified experts blind-tasted each entry by classification in appropriately grouped flights within each major spirits category, scoring each on the 100-point scale.

Products that scored 90 points or higher were then evaluated blind once again, in newly-created groupings by a different panel of judges.

Top scoring products were then reviewed again to determine a select group of finalists with the category’s highest-scorer being awarded a Chairman’s Trophy accolade."

The scoring is typical:

95-100 Extraordinary, Ultimate Recommendation
90-94 Excellent, Highly Recommended
85-89 Very Good, Strong Recommendation
80-84 Good, Recommended

Spirit scores below 80 were not reported. So far so good. But in my view, it gets even better...

1. Unlike all our usual fakakte rum "competitions", all the competitors (80 and up) are named.

2. Better yet, a tasting note summary was published for each finalist, again unlike our rum bozo fests.

3. Best yet, the winner in each category is described by F. Paul Pacult, the chairman of the judging. He even includes a short video.

4. Last, you will see a lot of new product of which you may not be aware. Ever notice you see the same old rums winning at our faux competitions"? That's because these are promoted by the same small crew, in the same old way, selling the same old tables, mostly featuring the same old products.

If you don't buy a table or pay to enter your rum, guess what? It won't be in the competition. I've actually seen "Gold Medal" winners in a category with - yup - just one or two entries. Big fuckin deal.

Now, this is impressive. I know of no other competition - anywhere, for any spirit - to counter a competition that actually lives up to its hype of "Ultimate". Bravo! Double bravo!!

Next... the rum awards...

[Capn Jimbo]

Ultimate Beverage Challenge, 2011, Rum...


Capn's Log: Now these are results! All competitors, scores and notes published. Not to mention a video by F. Paul Pacult on each. This makes all our rumfest faux competitions look puny and pissant. Which they are.

Note that the winners include rums of all styles in a wide range of ages and costs. As is proper, color is not a consideration. The lowest price rum is $22 (about $17 here), the highest is $99. Impressive. Learn and enjoy...

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Chairman's Trophy 95
Dos Maderas PX 5+5 Rum Spain, 40%, $39.99 Extraordinary

Ultimate Recommendation Tasting Notes:
USC Judging Chairman Paul Pacult's notes: Luxuriously rich vanilla, men's club/library and sherry aromas impress; taste profile features honey, vanilla bean, PX and wood resin; glorious.

Finalist 94
Appleton Estate Reserve Rum Jamaica, 40%, $27.00 Excellent,Highly Recommended

Tasting Notes:
USC Judging Chairman Paul Pacult's notes: Compellingly elegant yet potent aromas include nutmeg, dried flowers and hay; taste profile features honey, oaky vanilla, tropical fruits and dried sage. Great Value

Finalist 94
Holey Dollar Rum Rebellion Platinum Cask Strength Rum Fiji, 74.90%, $35.00 , seeking US Importer Excellent, Highly Recommended

Tasting Notes:
USC Judging Chairman Paul Pacult's notes: Supersize aromas of sugarcane, black tea, tropical fruits, wood plank and vegetation impress; tastes include resin, vanilla, cinnamon, honey and tobacco; wow.

Finalist 94
J. Wray & Nephew White Overproof Rum Jamaica, 63%, $22.00 Excellent, Highly Recommended

Tasting Notes:
USC Judging Chairman Paul Pacult's notes: Intensely assertive, highly floral aroma of fresh, undiluted spirit; taste profile features warming flavors of molasses, cocoa and damp earth; powerful and satisfying. Great Value

Finalist 93
Cockspur Bajan-Crafted 12 Years Old Rum Barbados, 40%, $32.00 Excellent, Highly Recommended

Tasting Notes:
USC Judging Chairman Paul Pacult's notes: Lush scents of brown butter, cane sugar and honey are featured in this expansive bouquet; flavors include butter cream, honeysuckle and brown sugar; long and deep.

Finalist 93
Denizen White Rum 2 Years Old Rum Trinidad, 40%, $14.99 Excellent, Highly Recommended

Tasting Notes:
USC Judging Chairman Paul Pacult's notes: Keenly vibrant, molasses-like and semisweet aroma; flavor profile features grassy, cane-like tastes that are bittersweet and fresh; long, gently sweet finish. Great Value

Finalist 93
Plantation Vintage 2000 Jamaica Rum France, 42%, $35.00 Excellent, Highly Recommended

Tasting Notes:
USC Judging Chairman Paul Pacult's notes: Lovely, sophisticated aromas of dried banana, Bay leaves and, surprise, honey; integrated flavors include tea, cocoa, brown sugar and nutmeg; elegant.

Finalist 92
Mount Gay Extra Old Rum Barbados, 43%, $49.99 Excellent, Highly Recommended

Tasting Notes:
USC Judging Chairman Paul Pacult's notes: Deep and generous aroma of brown sugar and baking spices (vanilla, nutmeg) impresses; taste profile features vanilla, dark chocolate and honey; delicious.

Finalist 92
Mount Gay 1703 Old Cask Selection Rum Barbados, 43%, $99.99 Excellent, Highly Recommended

Tasting Notes:
USC Judging Chairman Paul Pacult's notes: Scents include dark toffee, cocoa and vanilla; multilayered flavor profile highlights molasses, honey, nougat and dark chocolate; incredible length in finish.

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Shameless Plug: Visit the Ultimate Beverage Challenge (here)

[Capn Jimbo]

A brief interruption...


F. Paul Pacult's Ultimate Beverage Challenge (UBC) is subtitled "INTEGRITY, METHOD & CREDIBILITY". Yes in all caps, forgive me for the visual shock.

Now everybody says or implies this, but very few mean it. We do, and we've named the individuals, web sites and reviewers who do to. They are in the minority. But the UBC, much like the BTI (Beverage Tasting Institute) does...

Ultimate Spirits Challenge Judging Format – How It Works

"Panels of highly qualified experts blind taste/evaluate flights of distilled spirits by classifications within major spirits categories, employing a custom-created, multistage format. Judges record their findings on a worksheet on which they score each product on the 100-point scale."

Typical and appropriate - 100 point scales are common and understood.

"Multiple 3-person panels of judges are formed. The products from each category that score 90 or more undergo another level of evaluation by UBC panels of experts to arrive at the best products from each greater category. Final scores are derived from the cumulative total in order to allow each product multiple chances to shine. Each category will have a coveted “Chairman’s Trophy” winner selected from the Finalists."

Like the BTI, multiple winnowing flights are conducted. Although it's not completely clear I'd guess that, again like BTI, the panels change and become more expert as the finalists are determined.

"The spirits are served under ideal clinical conditions at proper temperatures. For instance, vodkas are served chilled (40-45 degrees Fahrenheit) to enhance how they taste properly chilled. Whiskeys, served at room temperature, are judged first neat and then with the addition of clean mineral water when appropriate and then scored both ways."

The whisky protocol is scrupulous. By serving the vodka chilled - modestly - flavor is preserved, and allows the judge to examine the vodka both chilled and as it warms. Nice.


About BTI:

Since I've shot my mouth off about BTI, a few words are in order. Unlike BTI, the UBC does not appear to have a method to identify outliers or bad samples. Or if they do, it's not published. Still, it is well to note this is a competition, not an analysis.


Bottom Line:

No rum "competition" comes even remotely close to the Ultimate Beverage Challenge. F. Paul Pacult is a master who has earned great respect over many years. He know spirits and how to taste them, and has designed a competition that reflects his own "integrity, method and credibility". Think I'm shillin' for him? I am. Think I'm paid to?

No fuckin way. He's earned it.

[NCyankee]

I was interested to see their Mezcal ratings - I have recently gotten into this very interesting spirit. Sorry but I really have to question their ratings in that case. (Though I would say they are spot on with other liquors for the most part, seems they just don't have a handle on Mezcal yet.) I am basing this not just on my admittedly limited experience, but also on some enthusiasts I have corresponded with online who have been drinking mezcal for years, often in Mexico, and have collections of 40 or more different ones. One guy has over 500 tequilas as well as his 40+ mezcals! I don't think any other spirit inspires such fanatacism as agave based ones.

I don't know what criteria they are using to judge it but Mezcal is a very unique and strong tasting spirit, rather new to the US - apparently this panel uses vastly different criteria than those who are truly rabid fans. It seems to me that the judges are valuing milder flavors while true Mezcal lovers seek out the most flavorful.

Among the Mezcal enthusiasts on tequila.net, Chichicapa is far and away the favorite , followed closely by Minero - whereas these two are rated rather low by this panel.

They rate Vida 93 and San Luis 85 - Vida is San Luis at lower proof, 84 vs 96. I have a bottle of the Vida and it is very pleasant, though rather sweet with very little smoke and not nearly as interesting as some others I have had, including Sombra which I am surprised they have not rated as it is the most prevalent here in the US (next to the crappy Monte Alban you see everywhere.). Also missing are brands valued by enthusiasts such as Los danzantes / Los nahuales and Pierde Almas.

I also don't know what Fidencio they actually rated but the Clasico is 44.7% while the Sin Humo is 40%. I have both, and they are the two I really don't like much among the five I currently have (and several others I have tried), as the smoke and agave flavors are rather harsh and not well integrated.

I am also confused as to why they have a separate category of "wheat whiskey" with only one, Bainbridge - and have Bernheims, which is a wheat whiskey, classified under "American Whiskey".

I am very happy to see the rating of 94 they gave to the Cognac I bought last week in PA - Frapin Fontpinot XO. Usually $100+ I got it on closeout for $58. Just missed Martell Cordon Bleu for $64, but I see this is actually rated 1 point higher

They rate Cruzan 9 above Brinley's Shipwreck? Really?


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Capn's Log: Superb, useful post. I think. I'm giving it a 95, mostly because I know less than nothing about mezcal, but this post has rewet my interest in tequila's crazy uncle...

The observation regarding the judge's possible unfamiliarity with mezcal may have merit. I've often thought the same for rum - purity, however important, is only now becoming an issue, and most tasters have not made the presence/absence of unlabeled flavorings an issue.

[NCyankee]

I do now see that they rated Sombra mezcal in the 2010 contest - and gave it a 95. I like Sombra quite a bit, but it is rather simple and unrefined compared to some of the better ones such as Chichicapa or Pierde Almas. Lots of smoke, lots of agave, and some fruit - simple but very well integrated, the first time I opened my bottle I kept going back to it and drank around 1/4 the bottle in 2 evenings. I highly recommend it if you can find it, I got mine from drinkupny.com for $34 with free shipping (which has since ended), it is usually priced around $45.

I also see some year-to-year inconsistency in their scoring. Beefeater Gin scored a 95 this year but only a 90 last year, while the beefeater 24 stayed mostly the same, dropping 2 points from 96 to 94. The Ambhar silver tequila was rated a high 91 last year but dropped to 84 this year, while the reposado dropped from 88 to 84. Of course last year they rated Jose Cuervo Tradicional 91, and that stuff is awful - I think this year's panel did a much better job on tequila.


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Capn's Log: Thanks for the insight. Ratings by such groups, however accurate in general, also vary as the groups change from year to year, and by the day, the mood but especially, by the competition. A lower score may not mean the spirit changed, but most likely the competition did.

One of the advantages of groups - assuming that relatively talented and credible judges are selected - is that results tend to fall into nice, bell-shaped normal distributions. There is far less control over the competition, which likely changes a bit more dramatically.

My recommendation for any who seek guidance is to check a number of resources until you can isolate those whose palate and finding most closely mimic your own. Ultimately, it's your own developed palate that counts.

[Uisge]

A brief interruption...

"The spirits are served under ideal clinical conditions at proper temperatures. For instance, vodkas are served chilled (40-45 degrees Fahrenheit) to enhance how they taste properly chilled. Whiskeys, served at room temperature, are judged first neat and then with the addition of clean mineral water when appropriate and then scored both ways."

The whisky protocol is scrupulous. By serving the vodka chilled - modestly - flavor is preserved, and allows the judge to examine the vodka both chilled and as it warms. Nice.


About BTI:

Wait....what? "Flavor" ?? For vodka?

Per this US statute, http://www.ttb.gov/pdf/brochures/p51902.pdf Vodka is supposed To be "Flavorless"....whiskey tango foxtrot?


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Capn's Log: I couldn't agree more, to me comparing vodkas is akin to comparing bottled water - yet there are subtle differences. It's impractical to distill to more than 96%, so there's still a remainder, not to mention differences in the artic glacier water they dilute it with, lol.

Refer to Pacult's reviews. One of the more interesting comparisons was done by a magazine who gather together a group of vodka drinkers, each of whom swore "I only drink xxxxx!". They then presented blind samples of each to the group and - yup - almost no one could identify their own, can't-drink-any-other vodka.

Like Sidney Frank, Andy Granatelli (STP automobile additives) was once asked "What part does marketing play in STP's success?" His answer, "STP is marketing. Frank's famous comment about his super-premium Grey Goose was (paraphrased) "...hey, it's only alcohol and water. If I can charge an extra $20, it's all profit!".

[NCyankee]

I agree that the ratings can change from year to year depending on the group - what I found odd was that the regular beefeater moved up while the 24 did not, you would think that the differences that made the 24 better than its sibling in 2010 would have led to the same result in 2011.

I was happy to see the very high rating of Broker's gin in 2010, it is my favorite and a good bargain here at around $15.

I also noticed the mention of flavor in vodka, most comparisons try to find the most neutral. The following taste test had an interesting result.

http://www.nytimes.com/2005/01/26/dining/26wine.html

I am not much of a vodka drinker, though I do like to have a bottle around for when needed in a mixed drink. I had heard many sing the praises of Sobieski from Poland, a rye vodka - saw it on sale for $10 so grabbed one. I did a side by side with Smirnoff, and though the Sobieski seemed very flavorless on its own, the Smirnoff just tasted like water next to it. The Sobieski does have a very mild though not unpleasant flavor.

[Uisge]

I guess appreciating vodka's "flavor" is akin to appreciating Bauhuas design.....you know it's "art", but it looks so bland


*******
Capn's Log: Right on! To me vodka is the poster monkey for shilling and marketing. Until Sidney Frank came along most vodka sold for well under $20, even $10 and was considered simply a utilitarian way to get wasted, cheap alcohol for mixed drinks. Most vodka is still used that way.

[Capn Jimbo]

Tempting me out of my cave, brushing the hanging vines to the side...


First of all, my sincere appreciation for some intelligent and educational posts, much appreciated by the Wide World of Jimbo, my many fan! And his friend.

Vodka is such a joke, the penultimate marketing con job. In America it started with traveling wagons selling snake oil, now we have, uh, super-premium alcohol. Close second: bottled waters, many of which have been revealed to simply be bottled out of a tap. Accordingly, you won't be surprised to hear I bought a bottle of "Graves 151 Proof Grain Alcohol". Even cheaper than Evercheap, er Clear. My plan?

You're right!

I have a friend who has a simply awful palate, and I knew it. Still, when his mother died I decided to share and dedicate a shot of Pappy Van Winkle 20 Year (rated 99 by BTI, and widely respected). His only comment? "Smooth, real smooth...". Well it was only six bucks (about $130/bottle, but ever so hard to find). His real drink of choice: vodka!


Here it comes...

He has two vodkas he swears by, and I recently told him I had three of my own, and suggested we do a flight. You do what's comin, doncha? Yup, I'm taking the Graves and diluting it with distilled water, and filling up an empty, but very expensive looking, artistic blue French Vodka bottle. Of course I will bring it out with tender care, and the flourish we all exhibit when bringing out one of our expensive and valued spirits.

We'll then do a blind taste of all of them, including the rebottled Graves' "Vodka", and see what happens. I'll finish by bringing out my new and "expensive" French Vodka.

Stay tuned...


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Note: For monkeys who are too damn lazy to follow Yank's fascinating link, a brief summary:

1. The Times set up a tasting panel to blind taste 25 vodkas, including some of the most promoted super-premiums, as well as the lowly and commonplace Smirnoff unflavored vodka.

2. Reviewers stated that they "were looking for interest", "a vodka that I'd drink straight", "were seeking elegance, neutrality and balance". Sophisticated aims, nicht vahr?

3. Guess which one won? The Smirnoff. And some of the most famous, like Grey Goose and Ketel One, not only didn't make the Top 10, the reviewers disliked them.

Your witness...

[NCyankee]

One thing I find interesting is the wording "Vodka was chilled to preserve the flavor. Chilling spirits (and beer) is for one purpose only, to subdue the unpleasant aromas and flavor resulting from some of the more volatile compounds in the drink. In spirits these are esters which normally present themselves similar to nail polish remover or paint thinner.

Pale lager beers such as Bud-Miller-Coors need to be served well chilled (40-44 F) or they taste awful, whereas more complex beers such as stouts or Belgian ales are served at warmer temps to bring out their flavors. Generally the rule in beer is the higher the alcohol content the warmer - Belgians are commonly served at "cellar temp" (50-55 F) while very high ABV barleywines are served at "room temp" (60-65 F).


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Capn's Log: I guess there's two ways to read this. It is a near custom to put a bottle of vodka in the freezer at say 30 degrees or less. So 40-45 degrees is more like refrigerator temperature, and not nearly as inhibiting.

It allows the judges to taste it cool, not cold to at least reflect the usual 30 degree experience, while not requiring all that much time to allow it to move toward room temperature for tasting at that temperature too. Serving it at freezer temperature is a complete waste of time, and valueless as you've noted. At 45 degrees and higher (the actual judging) you have a chance. Keep in mind these competitions feature a lot of spirits, and time is of the essence.

Thanks for the post.