The Bitter Chronicles: Artic Wolf et al.

[Capn Jimbo]

I'm flabbergasted. Are you?


Back Story: It all started a few years back when I first saw the Arctic Wolf describe no less than Mount Gay Extra Old (!) as exhibiting "...a wave of bitterness", and meriting only a mediocre score. We found this confounding as MGXO is widely respected and otherwise earns terrific reviews everywhere, including here. It is easily one of the world's top ten rums. And I'd never - ever - seen the descriptor "bitter" attached to this wonderful rum. In general, bitterness is rare to rums, which tend to have a profile favoring sweeter notes, including orange, vanillan and caramel.

Not long thereafter, I ran across this self-annointed "reviewer" complaining about a "bitter whisky" over at the Count's lovely site, and wondering whether he'd come across a bad bottle. At this point I'd discovered two important factors that do affect a small percentage of the population...

1. Hyper Tasters: have many more tastebuds than either Normal Tasters or Toilerant Tasters. Accordingly, flavors that most of us enjoy may well be rejected by the Hyper Taster as too intense. "Bitter" or "vile" is a common reaction by these few. In the Wolf's case he'd described a strong aversion to packaged lettuce which he found "vile".

I then counter-posted and suggested that the poor devil might suffer from what many consider an affliction of a minority of people (20% or less of the population). The Wolfboy responded...

Wolfie: "Now I do not know if I am susceptible to that particular palate quirk, but I do know that I have always tasted things others cannot. Take that pre-cut bagged lettuce that is all the rage, To me it tastes vile."

2. Later I discovered that there is a phenol common to many spirits that is perceived as bitter by a few, but is tasteless to the rest of us. I called this phenomenon "bittermouth".

When I posted my suspicions at the Count's, the Frozen One admitted that he wasn't sure whether he was hypersensitive or not, but held his reviews would be of great value to other hyperfolk. Nice spin. It was then I decided to examine his rum reviews. What did I find?

Over 50% of those examined reported bitterness! A truly amazing finding.

Wolfie's response to my study was to seemingly cut back on the descriptor, replacing it with similar adjectives (like "harsh"), and particularly the non-descriptor "tannic", actually a mouthfeel (that he insisted has an aroma and a taste). Tannins exhibit neither. Later he admitted to another poster that his palate was different, but insisted his reviews were still valid. Really?

Still I think it best to give the wolf enough leather to harness himself, and let you the reader, decide for yourselves. Kudos to Mr. Google's advanced search capabilities which allow site searches and provides handy returns and quotes.

Ergo "The Bitter Chronicles"...


The Bitter Chronicles...

Mount Gay Extra Old: "I will confess here that all of my friends like this far more than I do. It is the bitterness and burnt molasses that does me in."

Nemiroff Birch Special Vodka: "... Except of course, the spirit leads out with bitter flavours of birch rather ... I smell a
mildly bitter birch bark aroma accented heavily by a lemon ..."

McClelland’s Speyside Single Malt: "Unfortunately the whisky is defeated by an omnipresent bitterness."

Tullamore Dew Irish Whiskey: "...there is also a bitter ‘walnut-like’ undercurrent which runs through the whiskey and a strange ‘ashy” flavour which reminds me of charred firewood".

(rī)1 Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey : "I taste bitter sap and that disconcerting burn continues to heat the mouth well after the whiskey is consumed...".

McClelland’s Lowland Single Malt: "...a woody, bitter pronunciation to the taste."

Bruichladdich 16 Year Aged Bourbon Cask: "The first thing I noticed about this whisky was an odd tasting bitterness, which seemed to steal all of the pleasure...".

StrathIsla 40 Year Old Single Malt Whisky (Gordon and MacPhail): "A consistent note of bitterness holds the key to the flavour of this whisky. The bitterness is in the form of an acrid sappy taste...".

Barceló Añejo Rum: "This smells very bitter and very rough to me. Given enough time ... However I still feel this is bitter and metallic. The advertising ... However still a very bitter elixir."

Hendrick’s Gin: "... Although the citrus flavours and light juniper come through easily, there is also a peculiar lightly bitter backdrop which seems to grow as the ...".

Stay tuned for Chapter Two...

[Capn Jimbo]

Capn's Log: As you know Mr. Google's advanced search makes possible searches of a specific site (or portion thereof) and will return and publish all instances of search phrases with quotations. Very handy. To be fair to the cold and hairy one, I decided a similar site search of what I consider the gold standard - the Beverage Tasting Institute - was in order:

1. BTI: 1871 spirits reviewed, "bitter" returned 132 times, or about 7%. The ratio of reviews to uses of "bitter", 14 to 1.

2. Wolf: 356 spirits reviewed, "bitter returned 369 times, or about 103%. Ratio or reviews to uses of "bitter", 1 to 1.

In sum, and in comparison to the panel of expert tasters employed by the Institute, the Wolf uses the descriptor "bitter" about 14 times more! Do note that this does not include his use of alternative terms like harsh, tannic and the like.

Is this significant? You decide. The Chronicles continue...


The Bitter Chronicles: Chapter Two


Zacapa 23: "...I think I am catching a little too much oak tannin flavour making this ever so slightly bitter.. If you like a touch of bitterness at the end this may be just perfect for you.".

StrathIsla 40 Year Old (Gordon and MacPhail): "...a light, but consistent off note bitterness would hold the key to its flavour. The bitterness is in the form of an acrid sappy taste that seems to grow in the mouth..."

Mocambo 20 Anos Anejo Rum:"...a soft mild leathery (tobacco?) bitterness; but, this is a mild approachable bitterness of older wood tannins..."

Pampero Seleccion 1938 (Rum): "A certain rough bitter quality sits amongst the various flavours in the mouth... The overall spirit lacks enough sweetness to soothe the bitterness. ".

Jura 10 Year Old: "The overall effect is dryish and lightly bitter."

Bermudez Ron Anejo 1852: "The Cola completely smoothed out the flavour profile, and eliminated all hints of bitterness from my glass."

Is the Artic Wolf a Hyper Taster with bittermouth? You decide. It should be noted that you too may be in that minority whose highly sensitive palates and/or sensitivity to phenols cause you reject otherwise highly praised rums. If so, the Wolf's reviews may be of great value to you.

I should also point out that the Wolf seems to believe that wood tannins have both aroma and taste, which he seems to consider "bitter". Actually tannins have no taste or aroma whatever, but merely produce a mouthfeel (dry and puckery). Thus any "bitterness" experienced cannot be attributed to tasteless and odorless tannins.
Stay tuned...

[Capn Jimbo]

Capn's Log: In the interest of fairness, we analyzed the reviews of the prestigious Whisky Magazine, and also the somewhat biased Whisky Advocate. Here are the results:

1. Whisky Magazine: 2553 reviews, "bitter" returned 410 times, about 16%. The ratio of reviews to uses of "bitter": 6 to 1.

2. Whisky Advocate: 1252 reviews, "bitter" returned 38 times, about 3%. The ration of reviews to uses of "bitter": 33 to 1.

And again, for the Wolf: 356 reviews, "bitter" returned 369 times, about 103%. Ration of reviews to uses of "bitter": 1 to 1.


The Bitter Chronicles: Chapter Three


The Macallan Fine Oak (10 Year): "Under all of these wonderful taste impressions is a subtle but firm ‘bark’ flavour that turns slightly bitter in the mouth. It was subtle, but it was nevertheless, an unwelcome distraction."

Gosling’s Black Seal: "A dash of coke does nothing to the flavour, but eases the bitter backwash in the throat... A lightly bitter but clean wash is left in my mouth after I swallow."

Siku Ice Glacier Vodka: "A light but discernible burn accompanies the stronger flavour, and there is a hint of metallic/bitter aftertaste... I also noticed that the burn I noticed in my initial sip had intensified, and so had that mildly bitter metallic aftertaste."

Mount Gay 1703: "This is one of those rums where it is obvious to me that the blenders are working overtime restraining the bitterness... The rum is peppery and seems almost bitter... The rum exits with flavours in my throat and the back of my palate which are more bitter than sweet."

Gordon's London Dry Gin: "A certain dry bitterness is evident, and as I sip my glass, my mouth puckers..."

Nikka Whisky From the Barrel: "The whisky finishes bitter in the mouth and somewhat harsh in the throat... an offsetting accent to the flavour and a bitter finish has diminished the whisky, and I find myself returning only on seldom occasions to the bottle."

Shiver Vodka: "The metallic aftertaste I noted earlier has turned slightly bitter... and in fact the aftertaste of the Vodka was becoming slightly more bitter as we sampled."

Crystal Head Vodka: "A light metallic aftertaste which was slightly bitter followed, and the Vodka warmed my throat a little more than I would like... However, there still was some of that slight bitterness in my mouth and in back of my throat from the Vodka which lessened my enjoyment... It is unwanted flavours, like metallic aftertaste or raw lightly bitter vegetal flavours which knock the score down. The Crystal Head has both."

Are all these spirits really bitter? Or is this reviewer a Hyper Taster? Although he seems to find bitterness in all manner of spirits, he seems to especially associate it with older aged spirits; however this would not account for the bitterness found in unaged vodka.

[Capn Jimbo]

Capn's Log: Now for the, gulp, acid test. In his usual anal fashion (and wearing latex gloves), Capn Jimbo examines himself...

The Rum Project: 98 rums reviewed, "bitter" returned 6 times, about 6%. Ratio of reviews to uses of "bitter": 16 to 1. It should also be noted, that unlike the Wolf, the uses of "bitter" were singular, part of a noun (bittersweet chocolate or cacao, bitter orange), or modified ("bordering on"). Still, all uses were included - fair is fair.

And again, for the Wolf: 103% and 1-to-1. Back to The Chronicles...


The Bitter Chronicles: Chapter Four

Rhum Clement X.O.: "This is dry and bitter with a finish that seems take more from you than it gives."

Canadian Club Premium (6 year Old): "The dank corn mash flavour lingered in my throat, and the finish was as bitter as it was sweet. Strangely, the bitterness in the finish did not dissuade me as bitter finishes often do."

Havana Club 7: "Leathery tobacco crouches in the smoke adding a slightly bitter counter punch..."

Glenmorangie The Nectar D’or: "The only niggle I have is that the grape flavour from the Sauternes wine barriques has turned slightly bitter in the mouth... The exit is full of citrus and spice followed quickly by a slightly bitter green grape... The bitterness right at the very end tends to claw at the throat making the experience just a little less than it should be."

Jim Beam Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey: "Cedar and Oak planks freshly cut have imparted a little bitter sap into the bourbon, and the sweeter notes of corn and honeycomb do not quite compensate for this dollop of bitterness."

No. 3 London Dry Gin: "Gordon’s carried a bitter pith from the juniper throughout the experience, but even though I find the juniper flavour to be much stronger in the No. 3 Gin, I find the bitterness to be very subdued."


I don't know if you're getting it yet, but even though I'd already been aware of the use of "bitter", actually seeing the repeated use in so many reviews was impressive. It's one thing to summarize the use, but quite another to actually read them.

[Capn Jimbo]

Capn's Log: To be honest, this is beginning to become tiresome. Each "Chapter" is drawn from one page of Googe returns and quotes. This one is from the fifth page of these, ergo "Chapter Five". By now you're probably wondering, just how many Google pages/Chapters are there?. Answer: Twenty-three. At a point, and despite the need to be complete, it may become necessary to truncate this study, if only for the sanity of all and when the point has been sufficiently made. We'll see.

The Chronicles continue...


The Bitter Chronicles: Chapter Five


McClelland’s Highland Single Malt Whisky:
"... Vanilla bean and slightly scorched, slightly bitter, dark syrup (treacle) ... In combat with these more bitter flavours is a malty sweetness and mild ..."

El Dorado 5 Yr Cask Aged Rum: "... As the bottle is poured the glass imparts the slightly bitter smell of oak tannins and wood. When I let the aroma linger in the air I receive ... a hint of mildly bitter tobacco... it confused me with a mildly bitter counter punch of flavor..."

Ragged Rock Rum: "...a rough and ragged feel upon the palate. The rum is lightly bitter... charred coconut and treacle are apparent as is a very light dab of cocoa which all seems to account for that light bitterness... finished rather short with that light bitterness diminishing the appeal... The aftertaste is kind of like what you experience when you swallow an aspirin that has begun to dissolve..."

Auchentoshan Three Wood Single Malt Whisky: "... I am also enjoying how the bitter oaky flavours of willow and elderberry are balanced nicely with the sweeter flavours of toffee and vanilla..."

Tanduay Superior Rum (Aged 12 years): "... lightly bitter flavours of toasted walnut and coconut... There was a light bitterness in both cocktails which tasted rather odd. Once I noticed this off-note, I seemed to be haunted by it every time I tasted the rum...".


Please note how the writer seems to conflate "bitterness" with oak, and odorless, tasteless tannins. It was noteworthy too that his frequent finding of bitterness was accompanied at times as "combating", "confusing", "diminishing" and "haunting". Such findings would not be unexpected for Hyper Tasters. It is also noteworthy that the writer observes that (mild) bitterness can be balanced by sweetness.

This is why Hypertasters commonly dislike black coffee and what they perceive as unpleasant bitterness, which they often balance or cover up with cream and sugar. "Bitter" tea is balanced with lemon and sugar. Tannic red wines are often paired with the savoriness of a good steak. OTOH, Normal and Tolerant Tasters (about 80% of the population) do not experience bitterness anywhere near the extent of a Hypertaster, and accordingly this 80% - most of us - do not require balancing or cover-up tastes.

[JaRiMi]

I think the guy is part of the aspartame-supersweet generation, too many products with 200 times the sweetness levels achieved with sugar in his daily diet!

Glenmorangie Nectar D'or is to me on the sweet side of malt whiskies. Havana club 7yo is sweet. Tanduay 12 is sweet, with an artificial orange-like essence flavour. Zacapa 23 is f..ing sugary brown sugarmixture (maybe sugar is bitter)!!

Sorry, a matter of taste is personal of course, but this seems funny. I lso noticed that a caroni RR1072 reviewed got noted for poor aftertaste (hot and peppery): But reading the comments, it seems that a slightly higher alcohol percentage of 46% was the cause of this...so stronger alcohol = pepper. Interesting.