Made for Canadians Dept: Fernet & Coca Cola

[Capn Jimbo]

Are the Canadians onto something?


Not really.

The real truth is that we long ago discovered a very sttange fact - Canadians love to mix their spirits with Coke. I first noticed this with the Tubby Wolfster who - when he was challenged by a spirit not sweet enough for his well known bitter palate - would simply mix it with Coke. Indeed this at time was actually part of his tasting regimen. An aberration I thought, but not so fast! Soon I found the now retired Lancemeister doing the same thing. So when I finally found the respectable Davin Kergommeaux (writer extrordinaire for "Whisky" magazine and of his terrific book "Canadian Whisky") doing the same thing I reallized this...

That Canadians and Coke go together like Catholic priests and alterboys, or the Prophet of Rum with sycophantic monkeys. It's true. Coca Cola can and does cover everything.


So WTF is Fernet Branca, and why Coca Cola?

Truth be told I am simply sick of the avalanche of "new" products developed by the now mega-corporate masters and their marketing departments. Their modus operandi is simple. Create a new back story, invent a clever bottle and label and find a new way to sell inferior spirits altered with ever new adulterants and additives. If Batshit Dingleberry doesn't sell, then replace the chemist created dingleberry "flavor" with say artificial gooseberry, raspberry or numbnuts flavors and voila! A new campaign. Then force your distributors to carry it and roll out your exciting new ad campaign featuring all manner of semi-nude partying idiots (for the low end), or tuxedoed elegant grey haired men with adoring supermodel companions (for the super duper premiums).

The real truth:

Almost all these invented new releases are absolute ape droppings and should be avoided at all costs. You would do far better to research and find the classics - the spirits and liquers that have existed for decades, or which have existed in some cases for well over a hundred years. These classics can be copied but cannot be equalled. The test of time and the love and appreciation of them have been earned and reearned over generations. The joke on the Batshit types - and even Canadians - is that even Coca Cola is anything but new and has earned its place and our appreciation. It will not soon be replaced by Bat Cola. But as always, I digress...


So what about Fernet Blanca?

Fernet Branca is one of those time tested spirits that makes no bones about containing many additives. But unlike the modern inventions the additives are quite real, very expensive and which are believed - with good reason - to live up to their reputation as disgestives. Per the Wiki, Fernet these includ "The exact recipe of Fernet Branca is a secret but the producers, Fratelli Branca Distillerie, do say that it contains 27 different herbs and spices taken from four continents. Among the known ingredients are aloe, gentian root, rhubarb, gum myrrh, red cinchona bark, galanga and zedoary. The rumoured ingredients include saffron."

Fernet was invented in 1845 and has been continuously produced since then, and is currently distributed at different proofs, all around 40%. Like Wray & Nephews OP in Jamaica, Fernet Branca is likewise a household item in Italy. Consider this description:

"Fernet Branca is a dark, oily alcoholic drink similar to an amaro, but less sweet. The flavour might best be described as being a cross between medicine, crushed plants, and bitter mud. Like most strong drinks in Italy, Fernet is usually drunk at the end of the meal as a digestive aid. It's also a popular hangover cure when added to an espresso: you'll often hear people ordering a caffè corretto con Fernet in coffee bars on the way to work."

Having sat in at many a marketing meeting I can hear it now. A young and upcoming associate at say Diageo's ad department, is called upon and blurts out his idea. "How about a dark and oil drink that tastes like cod liver oil, crushed plant leaves and really bitter mud? It won't sell right way, but maybe in 50 or 60 years people will swear by it". To which his manager says...

"You're fired."


At last! My polnt?

The classics are classics for a reason. They have been established by tradition, but only succeeded through time and the slow but growing love and appreciation of generations of people. This is no accident and truth be told, these classics live up in every regard to the notion of "spirits". A suggestion: stick your neck and tongue out, take a chance and experience what generations and other cultures have come to revere.

There's good reason. And by the way and apparently because one of the ingredients (chamomile) is purchased from Argentina, Fernet Branca (an Italian standard) has long been extremely popular in Argentina as well where - yup - they mix it with Coca Cola and just like Morrey Amsterdam's famous but stolen song of WWII - "Rum and Coca Cola" - the Argentinians too even wrote a song to honor this drink...

"Fernet con Coca" by Vilma Palma. And now we know why Canookie's, and the Frozen Fat One drink practically everything with Coke...

[Hassouni]

Fernet (Branca, btw) is so utterly vile that a GENEROUS glug of Coke might be the only way to make it even remotely palatable.

I'm something of a cocktailian, and in such circles, Fernet seems to be THE secret handshake (along with weird, obscure bitters). I must be the only one who refuses to shake on this hideous beast of a product. It tastes like eating a mentholated toothpaste-covered bar of soap. Nothing appealing whatsoever!

I like amari, for what it's worth, but Fernet is like Satan's piss. I'd sooner drink a shot of Angostura bitters. It may be an Italian tradition, but so is corrupt politics.


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Capn's Log: Hass, thanks for the correction - I got it right (Fernet "Branca") slightly more than half the time, which qualifies me to flip coins with the best of them.

[Capn Jimbo]

I refuse to join any club that would have me as a member - Groucho Marx


Thanks to Hassouni who although he is of the camp that can't stand the stuff, he points out that there is another considerable camp that does: the Italians, Argentinians and the best bartenders of San Francisco, New York City and Miami, among others.

Hass also pointed out another classic - Angostura - whose story is remarkably similar. Both products are very, very old - both using real herbs and ingredients, both very, very secret - both are owned by a single family through generations and who both have earned a nearly unequalled reputation for quality and consistency. A product that successfully survived and prospered for over 160 years is one that we must take seriously.

For a view from the dedicated pro-camp, check this out:
The Fuss About Fernet Branca

From the article:

"If you happen to live in San Francisco, Portland or New York and spend any time in craft cocktail bars or with bartenders, odds are you are familiar with Fernet-Branca. Of all the spirits on the market, few are as beloved by bartenders as Fernet. It’s become almost a tribal ritual among bartenders, and you’ll find a bottle or flask of Fernet-Branca at every major cocktail week and event across the country."

And...

"The entry of Fernet-Branca is intensely herbal. It’s a combination of deep, earthy root notes and bitter high notes with the peppermint weaving everything together into one cohesive whole. In the midpalate there’s more spice with a clear licorice root note joining the mix. In the midpalate we also get a bit of heat which serves to intensify the melody of herbs. It’s here where the mint peaks, all coming together into a perfect blast of herbs, roots, mint, and spice. As with the rest of the taste experience, the mint leads the finish, which is extremely long, full of the root herbs, and very minty."

One could also see opposing camps loving or hating Wray & Nephew Overproof, Pussers or cane juice rums. Some tastes are acquired, and some only after much time.


What to do?

In my case, an easy choice. My respect for tradition and the test of time and culture trumps any doubt of purchase, especially at its price of $19.99, really a no-brainer. The history of Fernet is rich, the reverence of Argentinans and Italians - not to mention gay bartenders in San Francisco - must be noted, along with a certain and growing cult following. It is also impressive that this "liqueur" is bottled at an very unliqueurlike 78 proof. And it didn't hurt that I actually have a bit of an upset stomach, as Fernet is still regarded as effective for its original spirituous and medicinal purposes.

So. Is Fernet Branca truly the satanic piss described by Hassouni, or does it deserve its dedicated cultural and cult following?


A Mini-Review

Unfortunately, Sue Sea has family affairs to attend, and I am left alone with a slightly funky stomach, and the ache remaining from a recent dental visit. Either this is the perfect time to buy and review Fernet Branca or I'm badly mistaken. You decide. Nonetheless, it was off to Total Wine where I picked up a bottle, along with a nice Double Chocolate Stout just in case the Hass Man was right.

Taking Sue Sea's role I'll first describe a bottle many of you have seen, but few if any have actually purchased. Like Angostura the rather standard shaped, narrow necked Cabernet style bottle is simple but also quietly impressive. The name "Fernet Branca" appears as expected, in a quiet script on the neck band, and in molded glass script on the base of the neck. The label is absolutely traditional and seems to be completely free of the marketing assholes. The label is quite busy (in the old fashioned way) with the name in old tyme compressed vertical block letters, followed by 15 or 20 lines of fine copy noting the name, origin, family, city and the like. The label is topped by what looks like an eagle, with a bottle of FB clutched in its talons, circling the earth over a circular sunset background. It's actually rather powerful.

It simply reeks of history and tradition. I hope FB is never so foolish as to trash their centuries old reputation as did Mount Gay when the MA's (marketing apes or assholes, your choice) got their money grubbing talons firmed locked around the scroti of the MG management, and designed the ugly and sterile new bottles designed for obedient monkey consumers. Oops, my bad - Sue Sue would NEVER have said this - don't you wish she was here? Back to Fernet Branca...

Fernet Branca's 160 year old formula is absolutely secret, although a few of its possibly 40 (some say 27 but they're wrong) are known. Factoid: FB buys more than 70% of the world's saffron. For this tasting I broke out one of our now famous IKEA Optimol glasses: a better tasting glass, at least for us, simply doesn't exist. Tasting a 160 year old spirit deserves my closest attention.

The color: a deep red mahogany with good clarity and the appearance of body. Even at close to 80 proof, the string of pearl necklace legs are extremely slow and languid.

The nose: with any unknown spirit it's always a good idea to approach with care. Giving my Optimol a nice spin, the idea is to describe an oval starting at the chest, then moving up and out past the nose in an oval, gradually coming closer to the nose with each pass. In this way we find we are able to first catch the high notes, and then move our way closer to pick out whatever heavier notes may lie beneath (and there are plenty here). The "mint" noted above opens the nose, with a faint medical tape effect weaving through an obvious complexity (assuredly due to the amazing number of blended components). Oddly, there is a certain sweetness weaving its way through the heavy herbal pungency that dominates below.

This is NOT a spirit into which you plunge your nose and go deep. Do that and you'll regret it. Fernet Branca must be approached with great respect, delicacy and care. Sneak up on it, and it will sneak up on you. You may quote me.

The palate: Fernet Branca's palate is entirely consistent, assuming you take the time to gradually approach and unwrap its many layers. It seems clear that the more time you take, the more you will discover. Those who plunge ahead are likely to be overwhelmed by being exposed - all at once - with multiple and incredibly deep, rich, strong and varied components. Way too much, too soon, too fast. You simply cannot approach this spirit as you would a light Cuban or Puerto Rican rum.

Slow micro-sipping is called for. For me Fernet Branca opened with a deep minty, full bodied sweetness which prevailed as the full spectrum of its complexity flows by. This opening effect carries through the mid and late palates, and well into what is a very long finish. It is notable that yes, there is a mild medicinal bitterness and/or astringency but as the cooks among you know - good flavor is a matter of balance among the basic tastes of sweet, sour, bitter, salt and umami.

A note: you may be among those rum lovers who don't really appreciate the truckloads of sugar that is frequently added to rums and that in not a few cases, leaves you with a lip licking coating of cloying sweetness that demands a mouth clearing glass of cool cold water. There is an element of that sweetness here, but interestingly enough the mild emerging background of slightly bitter astringency nicely counters the sweetness in the finish. Thus, instead of reaching for a glass of ice water, you are more likely to just sit and reflect, and then finally reach for another microdram.


Bottom Line:

I can surely appreciate why bartenders are known to do shots of Fernet, as others might do Jaegermeister. I can also see how some who don't toss one down, but who still approach it rather quickly and deeply, in the manner of a light rum, might find themselves slapped in the face. But last - and not at all least - I can also understand how this completely unique and traditional digestif became a beloved part of everyday life for several countries and cultures, for millions of people and for new found afficianados, of whom I an now one.

It's a real taste of real history, a fine spirit that paid its dues, survived and prospers. In closing, Fernet Branca is so unique that rating it is a fool's errand, and I'm no fool...

I'm just an idiot.

[NCyankee]

This is a very interesting cocktail - but you do really need Punt e Mes to get the full effect, any normal sweet vermouth would get lost against these palate wreckers. Punt E mes is almost a cross between a sweet vermouth and an amaro or bitters.

http://www.kindredcocktails.com/cocktai ... ankenstein




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Capn's Log: Yank, nice to see you and thanks for a good link. As a lover of Islay this is a drink Sue Sea and I will absolutely try. I urge all readers to check out this recipe, which seems well received. This link also notes a number of cocktails also using FB.

Two comments on this unique drink: "Uncompromising, unforgiving, delightfully smooth. This one really speaks to the part of me that's a former cannabis user, which may or may not make you happy. 4.5/5". "Smokey, almost buries the fernet branca. Very smooth. I made it with noilly prat and lagavulin 16. Slow sipping mouthful of smoke, spice, menthol, and bitter. Enjoy. One of the best drinks I've created."

I tried it (sans fresh mint) - nice.

[Capn Jimbo]

Sue Sea speaks...


As most of you by now know, Sue Sea has one of those very rare palates that I wish I had. Part of this is genetics but another important part is her life experience and considerable time in the kitchen. She has an amazing memory of tastes, flavors and aroms and even when and under what circumstances she first came upon them Her palate memory at times seems photographic. I finally prevailed on her to attempt the Fernet.

Her experience:

Sue Sea:

"Jim has already given you a pretty good description of Fernet Branca's bottle which I too found quietly traditional and attractive, what with its raised type and molded in logo. Very nice. Jim had also given me a bit of a warning regarding what he described as a challenging spirit.

Fernet Branca's aroma immediately struck me with eucalyptus - a finding I'd not have made were it not for the fact that I'd been drinking eucalyptus tea for a headache (it works). The Fernet requires time and airing, the more the better as more and more elements emerge. These also included mint, fig, a distant medicinal authentic root beer and anisette and a bit of camphor which Jim too found as medical adhesive.

Don't take me wrong, when you are confronted with a spirit that is so terribly complex, particularly with all manner or real herbs, spices, roots and the like, all of these combine synergistically so as to present as many other things. You almost do better to NOT attempt to dissect the spirit but to focus instead on impressions and feelings it brings forth.

The palate of the Fernet Branca likewise has a lot going on with all kinds of intermingling components, so this spirit is surely something you will benefit from taking time and proceeding with small sips that you hold in your mouth. The Fernet is entirely consistent with the aroma being reflected. It is not heavy or oily as reported but it IS robust if you get the difference. There is one.

Again the eucalyptus, medicinal and spicy hot but not really bitter antiseptic, root bear, cola, and a "curiously strong" mint, a touch of coffee and licorice. The minty finish is extremely long.

So what do I think about this unique spirit? That's a very good question. Like Jim I have every respect for very old and traditional products that have stood the test of time and which are loved by different cultures and people. I know these classics come from long ago and which were developed and kept in the family. That means something. So the first thing I will say is that regardless of what you read or hear, and whether you will ultimately like them or not, the classics are worth the experience and serve as a good learning experience.

At a point Jim brought out a shot of Jaegermeister, as well as making Yankee's drink using with a shot of Laphroig Quarter Case, modified with a 1/2 shot each of both Fernet and Martini & Rossi Sweet Vermouth. This gave me a relatively complete experience: of the old world Fernet Branca, of the new world Jaegermeister and of a current mixed drink using the Fernet.

Now I usually try end my reviews with ways I believe a spirit could be enjoyed. I do understand why the Fernet is an after dinner ritual in both Italy and Argentina, as it is what may well be a legitimate digestif. It would be a purchase that I would recommend to anyone if only to recapture a sense of the old world from which it comes. When I microsip Fernet I can see the castle on the hill, the rolling forests and the large bonfires. With the Jaegermeister I get a sense of what the new world has come to, much of which has to do with the addition of sugar and other flavorings.

It's the difference between a bottled drink that modern marketing has designed to sell to a sweet predisposed market, versus a real spirit that came from the people. As far as Yankee's drink, it was amazing with terrific balance between its components - the peaty smoke of the Laphroig, the herbal and slightly bitter earthiness of the Fernet, with both balanced by the subtle sweetness of the vermouth.

Great fun for me, and I sincerely hope for you!"

Best to all...
Sue Sea

[NCyankee]

I'm glad to hear that you two enjoyed the cocktail - but I just wanted to clarify, I did not create it nor do I have anything to do with that site - it is run by "Evergreen Dan", a regular at Chowhound, which is where I came across it.