Whisky Review: Mellow Corn Straight Corn Whiskey

[Capn Jimbo]

Mellow Corn Kentucky Straight Corn Whiskey (100 proof): am I fackin serious?


. . . . . . .

Yup, no doubt you had the first impression I had. To be honest I've become so disenamoured of rum that I stopped cruising the stores for awhile. However, this week gave cause for a bit of celebration, thanks be for Sue Sea's new granddaughter. So being in the area, I dropped in at Total W&S and spent some time there. I saw the Berry collection - from say $80 to $100 and was sorely tempted by the 16 year Demeraran, from the Enmore pot stills, $89. But then I cruised by a bottle of Lagavulin 16 for $85.

To be fair the Lavagulin was winning out, mostly due to the fact that single malts as a group haven proven far more predictable and pure (not that I doubted Berry), thus this leaning was more a matter of learned behaviour. But as I was walking back and forth, muttering and telling the usual uninformed staff that "No, no, I don't need any help!", well, I spotted the bottle above.

Now surely, at just $12.99 for a 100 proof whisk(e)y this was a joke. Plastic screw top, cheesy label, shelved just above the completely overpriced moonshine.

As I was about to put it back, a couple things jumped out: first, that it was labelled "Bottled in Bond, under U.S. Government Supervision", front label yet. Hmm, that's a pretty rare sight. Then I read the fine print and discovered "Distilled by Heaven Hill". Really? And last I reflected on the sturm and drang of trying to live on a retiree's social security and I thought "Why the hell not? I'm a cheapskate. Ralfy and I both claim that the label and bottle don't matter. Put up or shut up, Jimbo!"

So I did put up, and bought it, took the pic, wrote this and here we go dudes and dudettes...


The Review

Note: this whiskey was aired for at least 20 to 30 minutes before tasting. Without airing, the addition of a bit of distilled water is advised.

Moi: Well the bottle has been well described, although in Sue Sea's place I should mention that the label pictures an open oak barrel and two stalks of corn. It's not classic, it's not traditional, it's not a marketing job, it's just cheap - meant to reflect the price I do suppose. Heaven knows that Heaven Hill does NOT want this one directly associated with their higher priced product, even if it is really good. But is it?

So I proceeded to pour out an ounce, when I reflected on the proof, and used my 3/4 measure. At 100 proof I nosed carefully and found a lightly spicy sweet corn, touch of cinnamon. Then went deeper with great care, fully expecting the alcohol prickle of a high proof young whiskey. No prickle. Then really DEEP and still - no prickle. Mellow Yellow Corn was well named, with the yellow label subliminally correct, nice.

The early palate opened with sweet, spicy corn heat and the cinnamon heat smoothly accelerating to the fore, with the high proof now making itself known, but pleasantly. I once had an Oldsmobile 442 (360hp) muscle car whose acceleration was remarkable but powerfully smooth, as the dual exhausts sweetly rumbled. Mellow Yellow Corn was the same, as the spicy heat built rolling nicely to a medium long black pepper and clove glowing finish and aftertaste (actually a white pepper finish, but the sweet corn, you know). Like a nice hot candy, the Mellow Corn has you literally licking your stimulated lips.

Heaven Hill's Mellow Corn Kentucky Straight Corn Whiskey not only lives up to its name, it exceeds it. This is easily a Best Buy whiskey, a really a must buy especially as it will fully demonstrate what the corn element in other whiskies is all about. A very nice and mellow, easy drinking, nicely aged 90% corn whiskey (4 years by law, and BIB).

Oops - one thing more. At a point I felt obligated to add a bit of water (which added a bit of mid to late palate astringency) and decided this whisky was just fine, this time (later I decided 2 tsp of water was in order). This is truly one of those few dangerously easy to drink whiskies whose balanced and harmonious sweet heat would indicate a designated driver is in order. Having a party? Buy a case...

Score (ten is best): 8.





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Note: In the United States, a "Straight Corn Whiskey" must be made of at least 80% corn in the mash, can be distilled to no more than 80%, aged at not more than 62.5% and last, must spend at least two years in used or uncharred new oak. Such a spirit is a mark of the distiller's art as used or uncharred new barrels are not going to save a bad run. Mellow Corn is 90%, and aged 4 years in good used barrels. It is 100% pure, no coloring, no additives. This whiskey opened at around $10, but is now up to $13 as it get discovered and appreciated.

Last, remember this is NOT a bourbon, but must be judged on its own as a corn whiskey.

http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CFR-2008-t ... ec5-22.pdf

[Capn Jimbo]

The value of "Bottled in Bond"...


Two things. First of all it's important to know that very few spirits are bottled in bond (government supervised warehouse, under lock and key). BIB insures that the stated age is accurate. If no age is stated the spirit must be at least 4 years old. Read this carefully:

"To be labelled as Bottled-in-Bond or Bonded, the liquor must be the product of one distillation season (January to December) and one distiller at one distillery. It must have been aged in a federally bonded warehouse under U.S. government supervision for at least four years and bottled at 100 (U.S.) proof (50% alcohol by volume). The bottled product's label must identify the distillery where it was distilled and, if different, where it was bottled.[2] Only spirits produced in the United States may be designated as bonded."

Here's the amazing part: the requirement for the whiskey to be the product of one distillation season by one distiller/distillery makes a bonded spirit the equivalent of a single malt, single malt and/or single barrel. With this in mind the only thing that makes Mellow Corn so affordable is simply the fact that corn whiskey is out of favor - but certainly not because of its taste. Further, as a "straight corn whiskey" it must be aged in used barrels. Chuck Cowdery is quite confident that Heaven Hill keeps its best used bourbon barrels for its straight corn whiskey.

If straight corn whiskey were back in fashion, this one would sell for double its price.

In sum, this is a completely pure, free of everything except a lovely four year old spirit of a quality well beyond its bargain price. I'm afraid to say that the snobs will NEVER buy this based on the Wolfboy's notion of bottle scores. Fine, that's simply more for the rest of us...




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http://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/retrieveECF ... 1.3.3.25.1
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottled_i ... ite_note-1

[Capn Jimbo]

I have been to the mountain...


...where I met with the Bearmark and pleaded with him, just as I did with The Great Cleveland Whisky Fiasco, wherein I set him up to receive a bottle from CW and thence to publish an honest and unbiased review of Cleveland Whisky - the poster boy for fast aging (claiming a 10 year old product in - no, I'm not kiddin - in just 6 days). I was so sure this claim was bogus that I could not possibly have reviewed it fairly.

My second request? Would he kindly purchase and review Heaven Hill's Mellow Corn Straight Corn Whiskey, as this time my prejudice was for a great example of an underrated genre? His answer was in the affirmative, whatta guy!

Stay tuned... and thank you Mark, er Bear...

[bearmark]

I was out shopping yesterday and forgot to get a bottle of Mellow Corn, but I'll secure one in the next few days. Stay tuned for my amateur opinion.

[bearmark]

I've now secured a bottle of Mellow Corn BiB for $10.50 and will give it a try very soon so that I can post some notes here.

[bearmark]

Well, I gave it a go and here's my review. I would call this an acceptable whiskey, but not one that I would want to go back to regularly. Try a bottle of Evan Williams White Label Bourbon instead or read the review for some other suggestions.

Sorry, Cap'n!

[jankdc]

Bearmark, while I'd have to agree with you, the great thing about mellow corn is more educational. What does a straight corn whiskey taste like? and how does this mix with just a little rye (MGP 95%)? While this would not be a go to whiskey, (Heaven Hill BIB is cheaper and better balanced), I think that whiskey especially bourbon lovers should try this at least once.

[Capn Jimbo]

No worries, mate...


Quoting myself...

Moi:
"For better or worse, American whiskey is dominated by bourbon from Ky or Tennessee. Although corn based, its really about half corn with the real flavor coming from wheat, rye and malted barley - a mish mosh of flavors, not to mention the strong effects of NEW CHARRED oak, accelerated over 2 years, which then are later mellowed by further aging.

But straight corn whiskey is not bourbon, and especially not this one. Mellow Corn is 90% corn and when bonded is aged in UNCHARRED or OLD wood and thus, is really quite a different genre. Just like armagnac is not cognac, and rye is not bourbon, is not single malt - a straight corn whiskey is yet another genre that stands on its own. While bourbon depends on factors other than corn and highlights those elements, a straight corn whiskey is meant to emphasize corn, not the rye, wheat, or barley which make up the unique sensations of bourbon".

The point: a straight corn whiskey, especially one that is bonded, truly represents a historic genre of its own. Actually there are really two different schools of reviewing this particular spirit: those who - consciously or not - have bourbon in mind and those who treat Mellow Corn as an example of its particular genre (straight BIB corn whiskey).

The former, including your appreciated review Bear, tend to compare and contrast with bourbons, in your case recommending three: Evan Williams White Label, Old Grand Dad BIB, and Thomas Moore BIB - all bourbons.

It is actually quite a compliment when the "next best alternative" named is Balcones Baby Blue (a 100% plain cornwhiskey) at $45. Even this comparison is a bit of a reach, as this it is a rather rare and expensive artisan product, is not a "straight corn" whiskey, is based on an unusual and rare blue corn (quite different than the usual white or yellow corn), and is not bottled in bond for four years.

In truth BIB products, especially a straight 90% corn, stands well apart from all these comparisons. The issue is that there really aren't many true straight BIB whiskies, short of possible J. W. Corn. The point seems be to either a personal preference for mixed grain American bourbon or the lack of straight corn BIB whiskies (perhaps both) for a fair comparison.

Now as for the latter - the reviewers who manage to set aside bourbon approached Mellow Corn within its genre- the reviews were really rather different. For example, Jim Murray was quite taken with the genre:

"If you are a true student of whiskey, your education is a long way from being complete until you have mastered this particularly charming form (corn whiskey)". And as for Mellow Corn, he gave it a respectable "83", calling it a "...oily with a sweet and spicy flavour. Good whiskey worth trying"

A good Duck Duck Go search also found a great number of very positive reviews. Per HH, Mellow Corn won Gold Medals at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and WSWA Spirits Tasting Competition (not that medal mean all that much).


Flat Ass Bottom Line

As perhaps the only mass produced whiskey of its genre, representing the corn forerunner to American bourbon, Mellow Corn whiskey stands almost alone and thus is very difficult to review without using the word bourbon. Yet bourbon comparisons are no more valid than comparisons to straight rye, straight wheat, single malts or rum for that matter. It's akin to comparing Pusser's Blue Label British Navy Rum to well, anything else.

I applaud Bear for giving it a good go. Personally I have to agree with Murray that exploring Mellow Corn for itself, for its historical perspective, and for its use as a component in other spirits (see, I didn't say it) - with these in mind is well worth the $12. My only advice...

Wax on, wax off. Quiet the mind...




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I urge all to read Bear's review at:
http://mark.abear.net/blog/?p=1481

[Capn Jimbo]

To clarify...


All spirits have styles.

Just as rum has its "styles", single malts have their regions (eg Highland, Speyside, Islay, etc.) and gin can be divided into London Dry, Plymouth, Holland or Amsterdam, American and perhaps a sweet offshoot and a German version. In like fashion American whiskies too are subdivided, both by taste and by regulation, all distinct and different.

Bourbon - the quintessential modern American whiskey - is a blend of corn, wheat, rye and/or barley. Further, bourbon must be aged in new charred oak. The complexity of the mash bill and the charred new barrel aging all produce the unique spirit we call bourbon.

Other American categories are the straight whiskies, for example corn, rye, wheat, et al with the option of being bottled in bond (yet another subcategory). Each of these represents yet more distinct styles or categories or as of late, what I'd like to call genres.

For the same reason it is unwise to compare a heavy and aromatic, high ester Jamaican rum to a vegetal cane juice rum - it is unproductive to compare a 90% straight corn whiskey that is aged in used wood to a mixed grain bourbon aged in new charred barrels.

To do this means the comparison is more one of personal preference for a particular style.

If one does this from the perspective of bourbon (the usual tendency) the straight corn will be found wanting. To the contrary if one proceeds from the perspective, preference and perspective of a 100 proof, 90% corn whiskey aged in used wood, it will be the mixed grain bourbons that will be found wanting (in terms of the pure corn profile we expect). We should not force fit this Mellow Corn into the bourbon category, nor the reverse. To do so also contradicts the government standards of identity for each.


American Whiskey is not a monolith.

Certainly that should go without saying. The problem is that bourbon and even rye far, far outsell a good straight corn whiskies. The numbers tell the story with literally hundreds of bourbon brands and at least 60 ryes compared to just a couple large production straight corn whiskies (ignoring moonshine, which in many cases is simply flavored neutral spirit).

This is challenging for any reviewer, but particularly those whose experience includes multiple bourbons and ryes but with very limited experience with BIB corn whiskey. The fact that Sue Sea and I had little bourbon experience may have actually been fortuitous allowed us to approach this very unique whiskey for itself, as a virgin experience.

Because of the uniqueness of this genre, Mellow Corn will likely continue to draw two camps of reviews, depending on perspective and past experience. Even our own meager survey is divided. I suspect this division by perspective is likely to continue. Reviews should be read based on one's own perspective. The good news?

For $10 to $12, it's a no brainer to find out for yourself - either way, you'll learn something. You'll like it, but even if you don't you'll better understand it's contribution as a component of bourbon.

What we'd like to try now is find another straight corn BIB - really quite a challenge - and see how Mellow Corn holds up against one of its own.




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Note: I can find only one other available BIB straight corn - "Platte Valley 100% Straight Corn Whiskey" - hard to find, at about $25. At Proof 66' Platt was scored at 354 (recommended, average) compared to Mellow Corn at 463 (highly recommeded, good). As noted Jim Murray gave Mellow an 83 (good), commenting "...Good whiskey". OTOH, bourbon focused commenters tended to rate this corn whiskey average at best. Two camps.

[bearmark]

While I'm very interested in the historic value of whiskeys, in the end I'm looking for enjoyable ones that I can share and recommend to others. The two are very different objectives.

I've explored bourbon, malt (all regions of Scotland as well as American, Indian, Japanese, Korean, Swedish, French and Irish), rye as well as the less common wheat, corn and quinoa. There are other grains, both mixed and mostly on their own, that I plan on exploring in the future. Each of these are interesting on their own merits and are also interesting as a component of other whiskies (like wheat, rye, malted barley and corn in bourbon). Note that the term "straight" attached to a whiskey does not mean that this is a pure single grain whiskey, rather it means that it was aged for at least 2 years and contains a predominant amount of the main grain (80% in the case of straight corn whiskey). Here are some of various aging rules applied to spirits:

• bourbon must be aged a minimum of 6 months,
• straight whiskey must be aged a minimum of 2 years,
• bottled-in-bond whiskies must be aged a minimum of 4 years,
• Scotch whisky must be aged a minimum of 3 years.

There are other requirements as well, such as maximum distilled ABV, maximum entry ABV, type of wood, whether the wood is used or new, whether the wood is charred or not, primary mash bill components, minimum ABV at bottling, etc. Some are even required to be distilled and aged in a particular location, like Scotch and Tennessee whisky/whiskey (even spelling can be important, although I don't think that this is a legal requirement).

I'd like to point out that I've been referring to "whiskey" up to this point. There are other spirits, such as rum and brandy (includes Cognac and Armagnac), which are not whiskey. These are valuable in their own right, just as different types of whiskey are, but they are not whiskey.

In the case of Mellow Corn, the educational experience was valuable. I definitely feel fortunate to have tried this whiskey while it's still available, especially since it's bonded and inexpensive. The historic value is not to be dismissed either, as this whiskey apparently played a role in the development of American whiskey that we enjoy today. That's cool!

In the end, it's about good whiskey (and good spirits, in general). For many (like me and my friend, the Cap'n), it's also about variety and preserving the uniqueness of different types of whiskey (and spirits). Both aspects have varying degree of value to whiskey consumers. The latter is where craft/artisan producers tend to really add value and my thanks go to Heaven Hill for preserving Mellow Corn.

In the case of Mellow Corn, which is a blend of 90% corn, a small percentage of rye and barley making up the other 10%, it may be an accurate representation of the historic corn whiskey genre, but (in my opinion) it's only a fair whiskey. Other equally valuable genres are straight wheat whiskey (Bernheim Original being the best example) and, of course, single grain and single malt whisky.

I, for one, am glad that corn whiskey developed into superior blends, such as bourbon, which is at least 51% corn. Even among bourbons, there are three dominant styles: (1) traditional bourbon with 70-80% corn, with the rest being rye and barley (very similar to Mellow Corn... an example is Evan Williams), (2) high rye bourbon with 18+% rye and less corn (like Old Grand Dad), and (3) wheat bourbon, which is traditional bourbon with wheat replacing the rye (Weller and Van Winkle). There are many variations on these three themes and even some that include both rye and wheat.

Just like the many styles of rum, all of these styles are important and worth exploring. Single malt alone will take you a while with all of the regional styles, finishes, etc., but it's well worth the journey and you'll develop a real appreciation for most, if not all of them. As the Cap'n suggests for rum styles, you should identify references within each style and use them for comparison to others that you try... always being willing to unseat your current reference or identify a new category/style.

Have fun, lift up your spirits and enjoy a good dram!

[bearmark]

Today is National Hot Toddy Day and I've been trying several over the past couple of weeks as I recover from pneumonia. Today, I tried it with Mellow Corn and I have to say that this has been the best Hot Toddy yet. I've finally found a good use for my bottle of Mellow Corn that I'm quite satisfied with. Give it a try with a shot of Mellow Corn, 1/2 tablespoon of honey, few drops of lemon juice and hot water to fill a 6 oz. glass.