This will actually be a pre-review, as I've already found this rum has changed character rather dramatically in approaching the shoulders. Now let it be said that no rum - not one - should ever be judged until it's gotten a good airing and is at least down to the shoulder. This one proves that. Per Berrys' (punctuation is correct):
So be it. Although it matters not a whit, all Berrys' rums seem to come in a tall, slightly tapere, thick bottomed classic bottle with a nicely capped cork closure. The label is classic, calm and informational. Enough, it's the rum that counts."A classic example of the Demerara style, powerful and rich with burnt sugar, dried fruits, vanilla and oak. This powerfully flavored Demerara rum was produced at the Diamond distillery in Georgetown using one of their traditional Versailles pot stills. The rum has a full deep fruity character, burnt sugar notes and balance from the influence of oak aging in ex bourbon barrels."
The rum itself is a medium amber with a nice string of pearls necklace, very slightly cloudy (good) and sports the expected thin green edge of age. At first opening and pour I detected the rich ripe dark banana from an armslength yet. Careful and closer nosing revealed a distant but growing classic sweet tar, and cinnamon/gingery spicy tones, as well as a rather odd newly tanned leather and a host of dark fruits. As a new pour there was a very slight, deeply nosed prickle - not the least bit negative.
A classic and true Demeraran pot still profile, and one that Pusser's lovers will immediately recognize (but darker, and richer).
The palate opened exactly as expected, just as the nose, leading with that deep dark and rich banana, and really, all of the above and leading to an emerging modest leather and actual wood that still manage to belie its actual age. Overoaked old rums abound, but this is definitely not one of them. Nicely done. The mid palate is heavy, full and full-bodied, thick rich and with growing astringent heat. With time I found the palate becoming drier and notably hotter and more astringent (but in a good way), but retaining the sweet dark banana, now underneath. A nice turn of events and development.
The finish was for me, an expected sweet heat, featuring both black and white pepper, clove and the aforesaid cinnamon and ginger. Overall the development of the Berrys' Enmore 16 Year is balanced, harmonious and consistent - led by a sweet, almost syrupy deep and overripe black banana to a wonderful, almost palate clearing astringent hot leather.
Personally I simply love rums that do this: that establish an early theme, tease with the overall elements, which then appear, emerge and prevail - switching positions - but without losing any of the well integrated components.
A special note:
My second half dram tasting was VERY different, and notably more leathery, dry and astringent. It was this surprising dram that reminded me of the great importance to judge no rum before its shoulders. I'm pleased to say that must have been a form of airing, as the several drams after were much as the original. At 46% the Berrys' Enmore 16 does not demand water, but no rum - ever - should not be tasted in stages down to at least 40% (if not more), and I shall.
Rating (10 is best): not yet, you'll have to wait...
Addenda (6/27/15): Score: solid 8.