Now most of you know that I work ever so hard to not aggravate clowns; especially after seeing enough horror flicks that feature a clown gone bad. Very bad. In the instant case, one of my big issues with the Frozen One was his tendency to regurgitate the distiller's marketing copy and make up "history" as if it were his own. I urged him to at least please add something like "Per the distiller's website...".
Which apparently he now does. But insofar as quasi-commercial "review" sites go, we all know how important it is to stroke the distillers and the distributors who fill these reviewers' conveyor belts with all those freebies (and softball, overrated reviews).
So how does the FO do it now?
Simple. Yes he does qualify the source of the copy, but this time he simply cuts 'n pastes the marketing copy - word for word - for what is for all practical purposes, a free ad. But here's the bad part: he doesn't appear to challenge the bits he so gleefully reproduces, to wit:
Per Berkeley Square London Dry Gin:
"On day one, the traditional four core natural botanicals, which ensure Berkeley Square can officially be called a ‘London Dry Gin’, Juniper, Coriander, Angelica and Cubeb berries are placed by hand in copper pot still No. 8 along with the Kaffir Lime Leaves..."
Is this true? Are there four core "traditional" components of a "London Dry Gin"? That "officially" allow Berkeley to call theirs a "London Dry"?
Any real reviewer worth his juniper would absolutely note and check this one out. FWIW, I sure did as I've never heard of such a thing. The Wolfboy simply ignored the claim; indeed, just reproduced it, completely unexamined. The truth?
Nope. No, there are not four "official" and traditional core components. Actually gin (aka genever) originated in the Netherlands. It was orginally made as a "re-distillation of malt spirit or malt wine with juniper, anise, caraway, coriander, etc.,[9] which were sold in pharmacies". Juniper was the key ingredient; the genever was heavy and malty. Later, a gin called "Old Tom Gin" appeared, a style that was lighter and heavily sweetened. Soon enough though, the English decided to tax the import, and allowed unlimited distillation of their own spirit gins: Plymouth (made only in Plymouth, England), and yup:
London "Dry" Gin
And what is/was "London Dry" gin? Like Dutch Genever, London Dry was - yup - based on juniper, the single core component. No sugar was added, but there was usually an added citrus component of the kind we associate with London Dry's. But in accord with today's laws, the only required/official component is juniper (genever, gin), and with no sugar allowed. There is no "official" requirement that London Dry be made in London, and there are no, I repeat, no requirement for Berkeley's four components to make a London Dry "official". I quote:
Indeed the only source I could find that names "four traditional components" to make a London Dry "official" was Berkeley Square, courtesy of the Frozen One. I also checked with my usual leading experts: Anthony Dias Blue, F. Paul Pacult, BTI (Tastings), Mr. Google, et al. I could find not one confirmation of this claim. And the United States Standards of identity state only:"Traditionally, a gin bearing the label would have been distilled with more aromatics, particularly citrus, than foreign gins that put more emphasis on the juniper. However, this isn’t necessarily the case anymore.
The only legal requirement of London Dry Gin as opposed to other styles is that the botanicals are added during the distilling process rather than being added later as flavourings. Likewise, adding sugar or colourings is not permitted."
"“Gin” is a product obtained by original distillation from mash, or by redistillation of distilled spirits, or by mixing neutral spirits, with or over juniper berries and other aromatics, or with or over extracts derived from infusions, percolations, or maceration of such materials, and includes mixtures of gin and neutral spirits. It shall derive its main characteristic flavor from juniper berries and be bottled at not less than 80° proof."
Let's examine some leading London Drys...
Keep in mind the alleged required components: "Juniper, Coriander, Angelica and Cubeb berries"
Beefeater:
"James Burrough’s original recipe is known to contain juniper, coriander, Seville orange peel, lemon peel and angelica root and seed." No Cubeb.
Beefeater 24:
"The recipe includes... juniper, coriander, angelica root and seed, Seville orange peel, lemon peel, orris and almond. To these are added a unique blend of Chinese green and rare Japanese Sencha teas, extra citrus in the form of grapefruit, and liquorice." No Cubeb.
London No. 1:
"In line with the classic gins of yesteryear, juniper, coriander and angelica feature in the recipe – the first two botanicals imparting fragrance and spiciness whilst angelica, together with orris root, give body and structure to the other botanicals. A zesty freshness comes from liquorice root. The London No. 1 is unique in that it also has a final fusion of bergamot oil in the mix – that instantly recognisable perfumed aroma in Earl Grey tea. Its citric qualities marry beautifully with the fellow fresh juicy flavours of orange and lemon peel, whilst the bergamot also reinforces the “holding” role of orris root. These are perfectly offset with the thyme-like aromatics of savory, whilst the sweet, spicy notes of cinnamon and cassia bark complete the recipe." No Cubeb.
Bombay Sapphire:
"Bombay Sapphire’s recipe is based on 10 botanicals. They include traditional gin botanicals such as juniper berries, citrus, angelica and orris root. To these are added coriander, liquorice, cassia bark, almonds, cubeb berries and West African grains of paradise." Cubeb present, but NOT as one of the traditional components.
Plymouthy:
" It has seven botanicals – juniper, coriander, sweet orange, cardamom, angelica and orris root that are redistilled with pure grain spirit." No angelica or Cubeb.
And finally,
Tanqueray:
"The recipe is a closely guarded trade secret, although it is known to contain four botanicals (juniper, coriander, angelica root and liquorice". No Cubeb.
Readers will not that only one of these London Dry's has all four components, but none name Cubeb as traditional. Except for juniper, no other component is required to make a London Dry "official".
Flat Ass Bottom Line
I believe that reviewers must be responsible to their readers, not the distillers, distributors or marketers. Good reviewers are honest, experienced, have good palates, can communicate succinctly and clearly, in language and using common descriptors. They must be skeptics. Most of the Projects readers are and for good reason. Lying, deception, and made up marketing are the norm.
To me, it is wrong to accept freebies. It is wrong to either reproduce or regurgitate unexamined ad copy. On the the other hand, I feel it is essential to do our best to uncover the truth, and to educate the many, many hundreds of thousands of monthly readers who visit here. So here's the truth:
1. There are not four required components that "officially" define a London Dry Gin.
2. Only juniper is required.
3. Traditional or classic components included juniper of course, but also angelica and coriander. Cubeb berries are rarely used.
4. Today, London Dry's can draw from over 50 different components to supplement the only required core component of juniper.
5. The basic styles are Genever, Old Tom, London Dry (with Plymouth considered a sub-style). There is a strong juniper German style, and a "New American" style using unusual ingredients (like Hendricks, using cucumbers).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gin#cite_note-HAB-3
http://www.london-insider.co.uk/2010/03 ... per-green/
